Cune 1966 Blanco Reserva

Wine: Cune 1966 Blanco Reserva
Winery: CVNE - Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Viura, 20% Garnacha Blanca and Malvasía Riojana.
ABV: 12%

Winemaking
Selection of old-vine grapes from various growers near Haro (Chiuri, Anguciana, Tirgo, Sajazarra). Whole-cluster vinification (undestemmed) in old oak vats and concrete tanks within the "El Carmen" cellar at the Haro estate. The wine rested for 24 months in vats before being racked into seasoned 225-liter American oak barriques. Although marketed as a Reserva, its aging parameters meet the requirements for a Gran Reserva.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Dark amber hue, showing significant evolution and a certain turbidity. It displays golden and orange glints, featuring a greasy texture with broad, permanent legs.

 

Nose: Pure power. It shows no structural flaws or negative bottle reduction. A distinct and unprecedented profile; balsamic in character with notes of sage, ivy, and mentholated accents (Fisherman's Friend, licorice stick). The fruit core reveals dried orange peel, lemon brine, citronella, and dried apricots, layered over a background of candied nuances and soft creamy notes (vanilla, brioche) reminiscent of cocas de San Juan. With aeration, it unveils an austere oak influence: vinous staves, mushroom, hydrocarbon-like hints, turmeric, bitter almonds, and "rancio" notes. A metamorphic bouquet that drifts between herbal infusions, exotic spices, nettles, and earthy undertones.

 

Palate: A powerhouse on the palate—profoundly bone-dry. It opens with great vigor and extreme, sharp acidity. Savory and bitter, it possesses a fatty texture more common in sweet wines. The wood tannins (or perhaps from stems and seeds) are prominent, rugged, and firm, yet countered by stone fruit, creamy textures, and seasoned oak. Whether it will mellow with age or further develop its "rancio" character remains to be seen. A truly rare and privileged encounter; a "rara avis" of Rioja enology.

 

Personal Score: 95
Tasting Group Score: 95