Borisa 1964 Rosado Reserva

Wine: Borisa 1964 Rosado Reserva

Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Viura.
ABV: — (Not specified)

Winemaking

The wine remained for 12 months in large vats to undergo malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. It was aged for 24 to 30 months in used 225-liter American oak barrels. A minimum of 6 months of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars preceded its commercial release. Historically, this was the flagship aged rosé of Bodegas Riojanas (its name being an acronym of the winery). The brand disappeared in the mid-1970s, evolving into the Monte Real Rosado Reserva, which was eventually discontinued in the early 1980s.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brilliant reddish color with good depth; clean and without sediment. Remarkably unevolved, extremely bright, effulgent, and vivid. It shows coppery and orange reflections with a certain sense of density. Thick tears.

 

Nose: Highly expressive, powerful, and open. Initially dominated by all manner of candied red fruit notes with a liqueur-like hint of macerated sloes bordering on the medicinal. Fennel, sassafras essence, and star anise emerge. This initial shock softens into a familiar profile closely resembling a Monte Real Reserva. Wine-soaked oak, old leather, sweet spices, cocoa butter nuances, toffee, and a high-quality toasted background stand out.

 

Palate: Generous, vivid, and brimming with energy; a style that could be described as "Garnacha-driven." It unfolds with the same spicy, creamy, and reduced fruit previously noted, driven by an intense citric acidity that mitigates a fiery, spiced undertone. A full-bodied wine, slightly bitter, with an aftertaste of English orange marmalade. It is in an intriguing stage, though the oak remains prominently present and unlikely to fully integrate.

 

Commentary

This 1964 Borisa is a superb example of the traditional, robust Riojan rosés of yesteryear. It proved its mettle by standing up to glorious Punjabi dal makhani, cooked for hours—a true explosion of flavors. These traditional rosés are best enjoyed at the table; they are not merely wines for tasting, but pure sustenance. Very delicious and impressive, it highlights a category of wine that has largely vanished from the modern landscape.

 

Personal Score: 91
Tasting Group Average: 90