Viña Dorana 1978 Reserva Especial

Wine: Viña Dorana 1978 Reserva Especial
Winery: Bodegas Gómez Cruzado (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura.
ABV: (Not specified)

Winemaking:
Grapes sourced from a small percentage of estate-owned vineyards, local smallholders, and selected batches from Rioja Alta cooperatives. Vinification took place at the main cellars in Haro and at the now-defunct Bodegas Torres y Montaña in Cenicero. The wine fermented in large wooden vats for 12 to 18 months to complete fermentation and stabilize before racking. It was aged for 42 months in neutral 225-liter American oak barrels, with two manual rackings performed annually. Bottled directly from the barrel, it rested for a minimum of 30 months in the subterranean cellars of Haro’s Barrio de la Estación before release. (Note: Some lots were marketed as Cosecha and others as Reserva Especial, though the wine is identical).

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Copper-ruby color with medium-low depth; very light extraction, translucent, and limpid. Features bright orange reflections. It conveys a marked sense of viscosity with dense, persistent legs. Broad rim extending across the entire surface of the meniscus.

 

Nose: A challenging and polarizing wine with undeniable quality. It is dominated by balsamic and vegetal notes (camphor, rock tea, samphire) that cling to layers of old wood, wine-soaked staves, and "solera" nuances with a slightly rancio undertone. Austere and complex, it deviates from the traditional Rioja profile while remaining technically sound. Hints of candied fruit, oranges, morello cherries, and quince paste emerge intermittently without fully taking hold. Over time, it becomes increasingly misty and introspective, showing notes of charcoal and toasted wood.

 

Palate: Considerably more cohesive and intact than the nose suggests. Compact, sober, and upright, it lacks excessive flamboyance but offers great integrity. It is deeply spiced and full of toasted, bitter nuances, governed by a vibrant, commanding acidity. Despite its unconventional profile, it possesses remarkable "punch" and undeniable personality.

 

Commentary:
This Viña Dorana is a wine for those who appreciate "difficult" and singular gems. It stands outside the typical stylistic lines of Haro, offering a rugged, austere complexity that prioritizes acidity and structural integrity over immediate fruit. A defiant and spirited Reserva that rewards those seeking a more intellectual and less conventional Rioja experience.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 92