Berberana 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Berberana 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 65% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 15% Mazuelo and others
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking:
Initially spent 12 months in large old wooden vats from the winery's founding era to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilization. It then underwent 48 months of aging in used 225-liter American oak barrels (average age of 10 years), with 2 manual rackings performed each year. The wines were transferred to tanks for blending before bottling in mid-1979 (70 and 75 cl formats). Aged for a minimum of 3 years in the bottle within the winery's cellars before release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Despite clear ullage (merma), it shows a beautiful ruby color with medium depth; limpid, clear, and absolutely sediment-free. High-quality cork marked with the vintage, slightly stained but elastic. Radiant with garnet and coppery reflections. Broad, tile-colored (atejado) rim.

 

Nose: A shadowy, earthy Berberana, very identifiable with its vintage: fully settled, with an absolute dominance of forest floor notes that lend an autumnal air and a significant dose of elegance. Broad, mature, and open yet delicate; full of dried fruit (macerated plums, fortified wine notes, dried apricots) sheltered by fine woods, smokiness, and that signature vanilla hallmark of the winery. While it shows less longevity than the 1970 Gran Reserva, it compensates with immense charm.

 

Palate: Consistent with the nose. Delicate, light, and barely visible; medium-bodied, benefiting from a very successful freshness that coats a core of reduced red fruit, though it doesn't linger for long. It is still with us and will be for a while, but everything indicates it has reached its ideal drinking window. It responds well to aeration, becoming spicier and gaining presence without losing its subtle nature. It seems it never had a single sharp edge.

 

Commentary:
Wines like this should be bottled in double magnum formats; it is impossible to drink just one bottle. A charming and elegant example of Berberana's ability to craft approachable yet profound aged reds.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 91