L'Étoile Doux Paillé Hors D'âge Grand Cru

Wine: L'Étoile Doux Paillé Hors D'âge Grand Cru
Winery: Société Coopérative Agricole l'Étoile (Banyuls-sur-Mer, France)
Appellation: A.O.C. Banyuls Grand Cru
Varietals: 75% Grenache Noir, 15% Grenache Gris, 10% Carignan
ABV: 16%
 Winemaking
Grapes are selected by varietal, health, and ripeness. Selected clusters are placed on straw mats (paillé) to dry, concentrating their sugars. Following fermentation, the mutage sur grains (fortification on the skins) is performed with neutral alcohol. This interrupts fermentation but allows maceration to continue, with the high alcohol level amplifying the extraction of polyphenols and aromas. The resulting wine is placed in glass demijohns and left outdoors on the winery’s terraces. Exposed to the sun and seasonal temperature shifts, it undergoes rapid solar decolorization. After one year, it is transferred to seasoned oak casks—mostly half-filled to encourage oxidation—where it matures for over 15 years. Limited production of 5,000 bottles.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: A beautiful brilliant amber-ruby with golden flashes and pumpkin and pomegranate iridescence. Broad copper rim and very fine legs.
 
Nose: Intense and remarkably clean, replete with detail. It features notes of dried fruits (hazelnuts, almonds), Christmas confectionery (marzipan, wine-flavored cookies, Jijona-style nougat, egg yolk), and preserves (apricot, figs, bitter orange, dates), alongside soft hints of black pepper and old leather. A fine smoky undertone reveals quince, English tobacco, and caramelized sugar. The alcohol is perfectly integrated and aromatic, merging into notes of whisky cake, honey, crema catalana, and rum-raisins with abundant vanilla.
 
Palate: Unctuous, powerful, and showing immense balance. Subtle bitters emerge—bitter orange, dried fruits, praliné—alongside curious hints of mountain tea. The ensemble is slightly off-dry, elegant, and savory, bearing the unmistakable hallmark of a Catalan rancio. Though it leans slightly sweeter, the core remains dry. Exquisite, long-lasting finish.
 
Personal Score: 91
Tasting Group Score: 91
 
Winery Profile: Société Coopérative l'Étoile
Located in the heart of the Côte Vermeille, in the town of Banyuls-sur-Mer (the ancient Roman Balneolis), the L'Étoile Cooperative is the oldest winery producing Banyuls wines. Established in 1921 through the union of several local cooperatives, it has evolved over the decades into one of the three largest producers in the region, alongside Le Dominicain and Le Cellier des Templiers.
Its product line encompasses the full spectrum of Vins Doux Naturels (VDN), establishing itself as a quintessential reference for dessert wines in Northern Catalonia. In supermarkets across Perpignan, Narbonne, and Carcassonne, its offerings range from accessible Banyuls Tuilé to the prestigious "Select Vieux" (with notable vintages such as 1983, 1985, 1986, and 1988). The latter is a staggering wine, often compared to the finest aged Tawny Ports.

No comments: