Cune Monopole 1949

Wine: Cune Monopole 1949
Winery: CVNE - Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Viura, 15% Malvasía Riojana and Garnacha Blanca, 5% Palomino Fino.
ABV: [Not specified]
Winemaking

Sourced from old-vine parcels belonging to various growers near Haro (Chiuri, Anguciana, Tirgo, Sajazarra, etc.). Whole-cluster fermentation (not destemmed). Vinified in historic oak vats and concrete tanks within the El Carmen cellar at the Haro estate. While specific aging records are unavailable, maturation was likely under 24 months, split between seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels and the original fermentation vats. A 5% addition of Palomino Fino—previously vinified as Manzanilla by Emilio Hidalgo—was blended in at the moment of bottling.

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Intense yellow with copper and golden highlights. It bears no resemblance to a white wine near its centennial, despite its 60-plus years of age. It displays a subtle viscosity and fine, persistent legs (tears).

 

Nose: Balsamic and powerful, opening with notes of Spanish broom, honey-eucalyptus candies, and herbalist shop nuances (chamomile stalks, dried fennel) alongside soft aromatic herbs. It possesses a distinct Mediterranean-Southern character that steadily gains prominence. With aeration, the background reveals ground bay leaf, ivy, oregano, and star anise. After several hours of breathing, any initial medicinal profile dissipates, allowing candied fruit, quince, and oriental spices to emerge, supported by a trail of seasoned nuts. Complex, shifting, and unique; it stands far apart from the traditional long-aged Rioja white profile.

 

Palate: The initial impression is of a bone-dry, almost saline white—full-bodied and mature, yet dominated by a razor-sharp acidity. It reveals wild herbal notes, high-quality oxidative rancio hints, and noble bitters. This Monopole performs at a superlative level; it remains remarkably youthful and has yet to reach its final chapter. It echoes the 1952 vintage in its weightless, agile nature. A truly monumental effort.

 

Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Score: 96