Monopole 1948

Wine: Cune Monopole 1948
Winery: CVNE - Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Viura, 15% Malvasía Riojana and Garnacha Blanca, 5% Palomino Fino
ABV: [Not specified]
Winemaking

Selection of grapes from old vineyards belonging to various growers near Haro (Chiuri, Anguciana, Tirgo, Sajazarra, etc.). Whole-cluster fermentation (not destemmed). Vinified in old oak vats and concrete tanks in the El Carmen cellar at the Haro winery. No specific data on the aging period, though it is estimated to be under 24 months, likely split between seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels and the original fermentation vats. At the time of bottling, a 5% addition of Palomino Fino (already vinified as Manzanilla from Emilio Hidalgo) was blended in.

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Intense yellow with golden highlights; bright and pristine, showing no trace of sediment. It bears no resemblance to a wine with 65 years of age. Fine, permanent legs (tears) with a sturdy sense of viscosity.

 

Nose: Open and expressive, showing no signs of fatigue or excessive reduction. Its profile is very similar to the 1952 Monopole. Initially, a powerful vegetal note of ivy, asparagus fern, and Mediterranean garrigue stands out, alongside honey and eucalyptus candy. As the wine breathes, these transform into nuances of camphor, oriental balsam, herbalist shops, and a spicy trail of clove and cajeput leaves. An interesting amount of concentrated fruit emerges gradually: candied quince, traditional Aragonese fruit candies, rosemary honey, sweet citrus, mint, and fennel. This is all supported by a background of wine-soaked oak, solera nuances, and subtle toasted hints. Extremely complete, rich in detail, and of supreme quality.

 

Palate: Bone-dry and full-bodied; somewhat aggressive due to a multitude of pungent notes and its brutal acidity, complemented by a staggering citrus freshness! Infused notes emerge: rockrose tea, pennyroyal, and chamomile stalks, accompanied by a marked bitterness. Persistent and expansive, featuring creamy toasted notes and high-quality oxidative rancio. CVNE's Monopole bottlings possess a unique style, distinct from any other wines of the era and far removed from traditional Rioja whites.

 

Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Score: 97