La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1983

Wine: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1983
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 85% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and Graciano
ABV: 12.5%
Viticulture

A portion of the Tempranillo is sourced from the estate's oldest vineyards in the Rioja Alta sub-zone, primarily within the municipalities of Ollauri, Rodezno, and Cenicero. The Mazuelo and Graciano components come from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno. A small percentage of the blend was purchased from local growers following a rigorous selection of the finest plots, contingent upon reaching a minimum of 12% potential alcohol and with a strict "no white grape" policy for those specific parcels.
Winemaking

Meticulous grape selection upon arrival. The wine spent 9 months in the winery’s foundational centennial oak vats (grey wood) to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. It was then aged in American oak barrels (average age of 10 years) for a minimum of 66 months, undergoing a total of 11 manual rackings to remove sediment and allow for gentle aeration. Bottled in February 1990. Aged in the bottle for a minimum of 42 months prior to release.

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Very stable in color, with greater extraction than in preceding vintages. Reddish-ruby with medium-high depth; bright and clean with luminous pomegranate and orange highlights. It features a very broad copper rim that contrasts sharply with the core.

 

Nose: Supremely elegant and reductive, gaining intensity with aeration. It presents a series of smoky and marquetry aromas (Matryoshka dolls, Russian birch), tung oil, linseed, and cigar humidors, alongside an exotic start of incense, reminiscent of Latakia pipe tobacco or black tea leaves. Powerful, ultra-refined, and stately, featuring notes of concentrated fruit, raisins, and dried apricots. The dream-like oak is perfectly integrated, contributing a perfume of cedar and dried flowers. Why are there so few bottles of this vintage left? Now we know (see the first definition of the verb "to hoard" in the dictionary).

 

Palate: More powerful and concentrated than expected. It features firm yet sweet tannins that contrast with and balance a high citrus-driven acidity and a torrent of spicy, fresh red fruit that saturates the palate. Savory, full-bodied, and spirited. It possesses significant "muscle" and is overflowing with energy—a total departure from the initial nose. Unfortunately, we haven't had many opportunities to taste great 1983s, but this is certainly one of them. A monumental wine!

 

Personal Score: 95
Tasting Group Score: 96