Moscatel Colmenares Trasañejo Legítimo Año 1868

Wine: Moscatel Colmenares Trasañejo Legítimo Año 1868

Winery: Larios (Málaga, Spain)
Appellation / Region: D.O. Málaga
Varietals: 100% Moscatel
ABV: 16%
Winemaking

Sourced from the legendary Colmenares solera of the defunct Jiménez y Lamothe winery, which was acquired by Larios in 1918. Grapes originated from selected vineyards in the municipality of Colmenar, in the Axarquía region. Considered the winery's flagship, it was rarely commercialized for decades; production was limited to a very small number of bottles, primarily reserved for high-level gifts and family consumption. While the solera is dated 1868, it likely stems from an even older, unknown source. Extractions (sacas) were minimal, and the casks were refreshed only on rare occasions. This specific bottle was filled in the early 1960s.

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: [No visual description provided, but traditionally these wines present a deep, mahogany-ebony hue with high viscosity].

 

Nose: A second visit to this Malagueño giant just a couple of months later; this time, we didn't have to struggle with the seals or the stubborn cork. It is absolutely magnificent, complex, and powerful. It has nothing to envy in the oldest Pedro Ximénez wines of Jerez, and within its category, it can only be compared to the legendary Moscatel Toneles. The profile is even better than when the bottle was first opened: more integrated and rounded. Notes of arrope (grape concentrate), figs, carob, and dates emerge alongside high-quality oxidative rancio nuances from the ancient solera. It is the definition of elegance, with hints of vanilla, cocoa butter, and caramelized sugar evocative of the most delicate crème caramel.

 

Palate: As fresh and agile as it is complex. Savory, concentrated, and expansive, it is underpinned by an unbelievable acidity that supports layers of ultra-fine wood. Every element is so nuanced and seamlessly woven together that they are nearly impossible to separate. With wines of this caliber, point scales feel inadequate and words become futile.

 

Personal Score: 100
Tasting Group Score: 100

Tasting Notes (21/10/2013):
 

Appearance: Never has it taken us longer to open a bottle. The cork was gelatinous—pure chocolate in texture, wine-soaked, and partially adhered to the glass. Fortunately, the double capsule and triple seal kept the wine perfectly intact with no ullage. It presents a dark, opaque brown hue with high depth (capa); iodine and mahogany highlights. It is somewhat matte and slightly turbid due to very fine sediment. The viscosity is immense, featuring huge, permanent legs (tears). 

 

Nose: It gives the impression of an ancient Pedro Ximénez. It is intimidating in its purity and depth, yet retains a recognizable varietal character. Upon opening, we encounter a complex array of aged notes: seasoned staves, wine-soaked wood, and solera nuances. Built upon this is an amalgam of sun-dried and dried fruits (Turkish figs, dates, fig cake, carob cream), glacé fruit, vanilla, and toffee. One can find whatever the imagination seeks: Coptic incense, sandalwood, cedar, orange peel, coffee beans, allspice, and pastry cream. Interminable and unshakeable, it maintains an incredibly high standard throughout. Perfectly steady. 

 

Palate: Thick, expansive, and extremely concentrated. It delivers a high-quality raisined sensation, rich with solera details and underpinned by a soaring acidity that balances its off-dry (abocado) edge. The roundness is absolute, with accumulating layers of fine wood and creamy toasted notes. With this Moscatel, Larios bottled more than just wine—they bottled the past. A sovereign fortified wine that overwhelmed every food pairing attempted and enlightened us all for hours. The only thing separating it from a Moscatel Toneles is a slightly lower level of acidity and a more serious, less "pyrotechnic" development than its Sherry counterpart. A fellow taster claimed we were witnessing the "apotheosis of Malagueño Moscatel," and they were absolutely right. Unanimity is rare in a group as large and diverse as ours; this time, however, it was absolute: a perfect wine. 

 

Personal Score: 100
Tasting Group Score: 100