Viña Albina 1978 Reserva

Wine: Viña Albina 1978 Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 2% Graciano, 3% others (Viura and local varieties)
ABV: [Not specified] Winemaking

The wine settled for 12 months in old 20,000-liter oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation before being racked for wood aging. It was matured for 24 to 30 months in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels. Partially filtered before bottling in late 1982. A minimum of 24 months of bottle aging in the winery’s underground cellars was completed prior to release.

 

Tasting Notes:
 

Appearance: Stable, medium-high depth (capa) reddish-ruby; dense and somewhat lackluster in brightness. It shows reddish and pomegranate highlights, darkened by its significant concentration—an intensity we did not expect from a Viña Albina. The rim is minimal and fully tawny (tile-red), contrasting sharply with the expansive core.

 

Nose: Discreet and austere, showing no excesses of any kind. Upon opening, it reveals toasted notes, wine-soaked oak, nuts, and shells, supported by a finely vanillic and spicy background that continuously gains prominence.

 

Palate: It possesses an unexpected strength. Powerful, with a savage acidity and an almost abrasive character. It is an overwhelming wine—concentrated and spicy, with firm, pronounced tannins; very dry and astringent. Its sheer volume and tyrannical structure initially prevent the ensemble from fully expressing itself. We were left bewildered, as it bears no resemblance to any other vintage of its era. As it evolves, it reveals increasing amounts of ripe red fruit, liqueur-like notes, and a very pleasant trace of sweetness. It makes no concessions to elegance or subtlety. This is an incredibly lively red, bursting with vigor and energy. While Viña Albina was traditionally considered the "Bordeaux style" of the winery—the most refined and elegant—they clearly missed that mark here. Nevertheless, Bodegas Riojanas' Reservas shine with their own light in the best vintages.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Score: 90