La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1992

Wine: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1992
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo.
ABV: 12.5% vol.
Viticulture
The Tempranillo grapes are sourced from the estate's oldest vineyards in the Rioja Alta subzone, primarily from the municipalities of Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba. The remaining varieties originate from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno.
Winemaking
The wine spent 7 months in centenarian oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation. In May 1993, it was racked into 225-liter American oak barrels. It underwent 54 months of aging with a total of 9 manual rackings (trasiegos) to remove sediment and allow for gentle oxidation. It was bottled directly from the cask without filtration in November 1997. A minimum of four years of bottle aging in the winery’s cellar was required prior to its commercial release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Reddish-ruby color of medium-high depth; dark with a strong sense of extraction. It shows brilliant, clean garnet and orange reflections with a narrow coppery rim.
Nose: Good aromatic intensity with a surprisingly youthful character, reminiscent of a much more recently released 904. Initial notes of flower petals, violets, and lilacs emerge alongside aromatic herbs (lavender, sweet broom) and a distinct "maceration" accent (stems, grape skins). These elements gradually soften to reveal toasted oak, cocoa powder, roasted coffee beans, and Virginia pipe tobacco. It overflows with vigor and youth, requiring further patience to fully integrate its components. Immense cellaring potential.
 
Palate: Sapid, concentrated, and delicious. It is filled with notes of reduced red fruit—sweet, spicy, tart, and cool—enveloped in elegant toasted nuances that are only a shadow of what they will eventually become. It is well-endowed in every aspect: acidity, firm tannins, pleasant bitterness, and remarkable freshness.
 
Commentary
This is likely the finest wine produced in Rioja in 1992, or at least the most drinkable. If afforded another 20 years of patience, it will undoubtedly become a classic. La Rioja Alta has once again managed to extract the best from an unfortunate vintage that left very few notable wines. It confirms that the estate is an exception to the regional rule; this wine carries the unmistakable house hallmark. It will continue to grow.
 
Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 90

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