Viña Tondonia 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Viña Tondonia 1973 Gran Reserva

Winery: R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo.
ABV: 12% vol.

Winemaking
The wine spent six months in wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 9 to 10 years in seasoned American oak barrels (225-liter) crafted by the winery's own coopers. The wine underwent two manual rackings (trasiegos) per year and was clarified with fresh egg whites. Bottled directly from the cask without filtration. At that stage, a lacquer seal was applied to the neck of each bottle, replaced by a lead capsule upon final labeling. It rested for at least 44 months in the cellar before its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Very pale brownish-ruby core of medium-low depth; clean and free of sediment. It shows bright reddish and orange reflections with a tawny rim that blends seamlessly into the meniscus.

 

Nose: Somewhat muted on the nose, showing evident signs of premature reduction despite the bottle's excellent storage conditions. There are notes of varnish, antique shop, dried fruits, and husks, with a faint oxidative background reminiscent of old solera and dry wood planks. Mature and toasted, it offers hints of burnt caramel and an off-dry character with sensations of raisins and carob. While far from decrepit, the wine sits at a tipping point where its evolution could go either way.

 

Palate: Light, fresh, and fluid, with a gentle and straightforward mouthfeel. It retains enough nerve to avoid collapse, featuring a citric acidity supported by ripe fruit in liqueur. A "lesser" Tondonia that stands apart from the legendary vintages of the 1954–1970 period. It possesses the winery's characteristic natural air and classicism but lacks the extra quality found in superior harvests. The 1970s were not the strongest decade for López de Heredia reds, as evidenced here. A second bottle will be sought to confirm these findings; it deserves another opportunity.

 

Commentary
This 1973 Gran Reserva reflects a transition period for the estate. Although it remains a technically correct and pleasant wine, it lacks the monumental structure and depth associated with Tondonia’s most iconic years. It is an honest Rioja, showing the more fragile side of traditional winemaking during a challenging decade for the region.

 

Personal Score: 88
Tasting Group Average: 90