Imperial 1928 Reserva Especial

Wine: Imperial 1928 Reserva Especial

Winery: Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: Majority Tempranillo, with Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Viura.
ABV: 11% vol.

Winemaking

The wine remained for 12 to 18 months in large, old wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation and settle before racking. It matured for approximately 10 years in semi-new 225-liter American oak barrels. Commercialized upon demand directly from the barrel. Hand-recorked at the winery every 20–25 years. Featuring a special wax seal and labeling specifically for the British market.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby color with medium-high depth; opaque and dark. Its extraordinary intensity and clarity are staggering. There are few logical arguments to explain how a wine approaching its centenary can maintain such color stability, brilliance, and a near-total absence of sediment. It doesn't just look 20 years younger; it seems to have skipped half a century. Brilliant amber and coppery reflections. Tawny rim with a stark contrast against the meniscus.

 

Nose: A nose of great personality and a pronounced reductive character that develops gradually until it occupies the entire bouquet. Initially soft and of medium intensity, with a predominance of liqueur-like fruit and vanilla that quickly gives way to dried flowers, lemongrass, black tea, and burnt sugar. A suggestive and elusive backdrop follows, blending camphor, balsam, and resinous notes of incense, liniment, and wax. Intricate, distant, and strange, yet highly compelling.

 

Palate: Fresh and slightly acidulous on the palate, with a very lively acidity and a persistent bitterness throughout. It is defined by exceptionally fine, high-quality oak and creamy nuances that dress silken tannins. Much more elegant here than on the nose. There is not even the slightest trace of fruit; instead, toasted notes and leather-like hints emerge. Savory, balanced, and remarkably drinkable.

 

Commentary

The 1928 Imperial is considered the foundational vintage of this CVNE classic. This "viejuno" pioneer seems determined to reach its centenary in 2028 in better shape than most of us. It is a structural marvel that defies time, offering an experience much more vital than its age suggests. A foundational legend that has passed its "technical inspection" in peak form. It truly has a plan.

 

Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Average: 98