Marqués de Riscal 1998 Gran Reserva

Wine: Marqués de Riscal 1998 Gran Reserva
Winery: Marqués de Riscal (Elciego, Álava)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 20% others, 10% Graciano.
ABV: 13% vol. 

Winemaking

Grapes selected from vines over 30 years old, sourced from estate vineyards and small-scale growers in Rioja Alavesa. Fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. The wine matured for 36 months in new 225-liter American oak barrels. It underwent a minimum of 36 months of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-cherry color with medium-high depth; opaque and dark. Featuring orange and pomegranate reflections with subdued brilliance. Wide orange rim, showing significant contrast against the meniscus. 

 

Nose: Somewhat lacking in intensity upon opening—unfocused, imprecise, and with little expression. Initially, soft toasted notes, creamy nuances, and hints of vanillic oak are perceived over a spicy background. The overall sensation is one of limited depth and detail, appearing slightly muted as if aged prematurely. It builds momentum slowly, revealing notes of red fruit in liqueur, old leather, cocoa powder, "Zara" licorice, and an increasingly present earthy character of humus, leaf litter, and wine-soaked staves. It improves steadily with aeration. 

 

Palate: Still very vigorous on the palate; concentrated and even harsh. Firm, pronounced tannins accompany an incisive acidity that seems not to have softened during its years in the bottle. A curious peppery note, reminiscent of Cabernet, stands out alongside abundant black fruit and elegant toasted nuances. While it requires further cellaring, it is already enjoyable. 

 

Commentary

Among the Riscal wines from the late 90s, the 1998 Reserva appears to be the most promising, showing the best manners and an apparent greater potential for growth in the bottle. Although it currently presents a certain structural stiffness, its energetic pulse and evolving aromatic complexity suggest a positive trajectory. A wine to keep an eye on, as it possesses the necessary grip to continue developing favorably. 

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 88