Berberana 1970 Gran Reserva

Wine: Berberana 1970 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 20% Mazuelo, 20% Garnacha.
ABV: 12.8% vol. 

Winemaking

The wine initially remained for 12 months in large, founding-era wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. It was then aged for 48 months in used 225-liter American oak barrels with an average age of 10 years. Bottled in mid-1976 in 70 cl format. It underwent a minimum of 3 years of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Coppery-ruby color with medium depth; very clear and clean, albeit with a very fine sediment at the base of the bottle. Featuring amber reflections. The rim is exceptionally wide and tawny/brick-colored. 

 

Nose: A highly recognizable Berberana, showcasing all the house's signature traits. Soft and settled, with a classic Riojan Gran Reserva profile of long aging (old leather, earthy notes, smoke). It offers "tons" of fine wood, sweet spices, and a perfumed backdrop of wilted flowers and creamy toast. As it breathes, it gains great intensity, revealing hints of aromatic herbs (rock tea, rosemary, fenugreek) alongside a spicy finish of laurel and eucalyptus leaves. Attractive and elegant, with a slightly more Mediterranean character than other wines from the same period.

 

Palate: On the palate, the wine is lighter than expected, without excessive concentration. Fresh and earthy, it features a core of spicy, reduced red fruit and an intense acidity. It is remarkably easy to drink; vivid, vital, and fully integrated without the slightest edge. Another superb Berberana from the winery's finest era.

 

Commentary

The 1970 Gran Reserva is a nostalgic reminder of the heights Berberana once reached. It is a wine that prioritizes balance and tertiary complexity over raw power, standing as a perfect example of the traditional long-aging philosophy of Ollauri. It is regrettable that so few wines of this character are produced today. A reliable and soulful classic at its peak. 

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 93