Glorioso 1978 Reserva

Wine: Glorioso 1978 Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Palacio (Laguardia, Álava)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha.
ABV: — (Not specified)

Winemaking

Grapes purchased from small-scale growers in Rioja Alavesa within a 15-kilometer radius of the winery. The wine remained for 12 months in large wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation and settle before wood aging. It matured for a minimum of 24 months in old 225-liter American oak barrels. It underwent a minimum of 2 years of bottle aging in the historic cellars of the founding winery in Laguardia prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium-low depth; clean and brilliant. It displays pomegranate and orange reflections. The rim is wide and tawny/brick-colored, showing no distinction from the meniscus.

 

Nose: Completely reduced; it required a couple of hours of aeration to begin opening. Initially, notes of acetone and a suspicious acetic touch predominate, hinting at a potential flaw. However, it cleans up gradually and steadily, though it maintains its pronounced tertiary character throughout. Attractive hints of dried leaves, star anise, black licorice, toasted notes, and coal dust emerge, over a backdrop of vanilla and nutmeg. Highly curious and possessed of immense personality.

 

Palate: Everything becomes more straightforward on the palate. Mature, full-bodied, and creamy, featuring a spicy edge and sufficient acidity to keep it alive. it improves continuously, becoming cleaner and more pleasant as it rounds out by the moment. It possesses luxury tannins—exceedingly fine and caressing. While not necessarily an "elegant" wine, it shares many of the details found in the legendary Gloriosos of the 1950s and 60s.

 

Commentary

The 1978 Reserva is a wine of character that demands patience. After overcoming its initial reductive barriers, it reveals a structural honesty and a velvety mouthfeel that recalls the traditional Alavesa style of the house. It is a rustic yet soulful red that, despite its fragility, offers a rewarding experience for those who appreciate the historical profile of Laguardia's old cellars. It deserves another opportunity.

 

Personal Score: 87
Tasting Group Average: 89