Marqués de Riscal 1961 Reserva

Wine: Marqués de Riscal 1961 Reserva
Winery: Marqués de Riscal (Elciego, Álava)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon.
ABV: — (Not specified)

Winemaking

The blend contains an insignificant percentage of white varieties (mainly Viura), as it was customary to plant white vines at the head of the rows for family consumption, which were also harvested for the winery. The wine remained for approximately 12 months in vats. It matured for 45 to 50 months in old 225-liter American oak barrels. Continuous rackings were performed every 3 months during the first three years to avoid filtration prior to bottling. Traditional fining with fresh egg whites. Bottled by hand directly from the barrel. A minimum of 5 years of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars before its commercial release. Bottles are recorked every 15 years.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Garnet color with medium-high depth; very dark and opaque. Extraordinarily extracted for a wine that has surpassed 50 vintages, even for a Riscal of this era. It is virtually impossible to date by sight alone. Completely free of sediment, remarkably clean and brilliant, with pomegranate and reddish reflections. The rim is minimal and tawny/brick-colored, showing a stark contrast against a meniscus that occupies nearly the entire surface.

 

Nose: Grim yet powerful; a challenging wine to approach. Upon opening, it displays an exhibition of strength with unusual notes of honey syrup (arrope), iodine, tar, black licorice, and a very intense mineral-balsamic backdrop that suggests a very high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It commands respect—sullen, yet without any off-odors or reductive issues. Kept for 4-5 hours in the bottle, it remains reserved, barely engaging in dialogue, perhaps becoming slightly more spiced with timid hints of shaded forest floor and burnt coffee. Intimidating.

 

Palate: Even better on the palate. Muscular and built upon a tremendous structure, with pronounced tannins and a great sense of extraction. Very strong acidity, with exceptionally fine oak in the background—spectacular. A back-and-forth of very ripe black fruit, spices, and bitter nuances leads to a long finish. A different and peculiar Riscal, untamed and gifted with a devastating punch. Wines like this seem as if they are never truly at their "peak." It requires much more time in the bottle. Its potential is frightening.

 

Commentary

The 1961 Reserva is a powerhouse that defies the typical elegance associated with aged Rioja. It is a structural titan, likely bolstered by a significant presence of Cabernet Sauvignon that provides a backbone of iron. It feels almost indestructible, moving with a "crude" vitality that suggests it will still be evolving in another 20 years. A daunting yet thrilling experience that leaves a lasting impression of raw power. It was a pleasure to meet you.

 

Personal Score: 93
Tasting Group Average: 90