La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1968

Wine: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1968
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Graciano, 10% Viura.
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking

Tempranillo sourced from the oldest estate vineyards in Rioja Alta (Ollauri, Rodezno, and Cenicero), with Mazuelo and Graciano from the Melchorón I and II estates. A small portion of the blend was purchased from local growers’ finest plots, following strict selection for sugar levels. The wine remained for 12 months in centennial wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize. It was aged for a minimum of 72 months in 225-liter American oak barrels, with 9 manual rackings to remove sediment and allow slight oxygenation. A minimum of 42 months of bottle aging followed prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Coppery-ruby color with medium-low depth; limpid and luminous. The least "extracted" of the 1964–1975 series, perhaps comparable to the 1976. It displays brilliant reddish and amber reflections. The rim is wide and very clear, showing almost no distinction from the meniscus.

 

Nose: Medium intensity with a noble expression of fine reduction. Subtle notes of exotic woods, morels, smoke, and aromatic coffee emerge, alongside a more "animal" hint of stable and old leather. The vanilla-smoked backdrop is quintessentially Riojan and supremely elegant. It opens step by step, gaining robustness with candied red fruits, laurel, and black pepper. It continues to grow, majestically oscillating between its initial refinement and a newly acquired firmness. A monumental red, complex and brimming with detail.

 

Palate: Vivid with a tremendous acidity that seems untouched by its years in the bottle. Everything else is pure smoothness: tannins that melt in the mouth, the sweetest red fruit, and nuances of vanilla and smoke that linger for hours. Savory, full-bodied, and as satisfying as it is scarce—one bottle is simply not enough. A great, great, great wine.

 

Commentary

The 1968 Gran Reserva 904 is a definitive masterclass in balance and traditional elegance. Despite its lighter color and delicate appearance, it possesses an inner strength and a vibrant acidic core that defies time. It stands as one of the most sophisticated examples of the house style, evolving in the glass with a grace and complexity that few wines globally can hope to emulate. A majestic Rioja in its absolute prime.

 

Personal Score: 97
Tasting Group Average: 96