Monte Real 1966 Gran Reserva

Wine: Monte Real 1966 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 10% Garnacha, 2% Graciano, 3% others (Viura, Malvasía Riojana).
ABV: — (Not specified)

Winemaking

Fermentation took place in old 20,000-liter wooden vats for 12 to 18 months before racking. A portion of the wine was crafted using the carbonic maceration system. Subsequently, it matured for a minimum of 72 months in used American oak barrels, with regular rackings performed every 8 months. Final blending in tanks was followed by a stabilization period of 6 to 12 months. It underwent a minimum of 6 years of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby color; very clear, almost pale, with subdued brilliance. It displays amber and coppery reflections. The rim is wide and completely tawny/brick-colored.

 

Nose: Upon opening, it appears somewhat coarse and "complicated." Notes of damp earth, moss, peat, and tar emerge, alongside an almost smoky backdrop of vine shoot embers, charcoal, and ash. It wanders through nuances of smoke, wine-soaked staves, and solera-like tones, with a growing presence of white spices indicating the wine is beginning to resolve. High-quality reductive aromas, abundant leather, and a very powerful "stable" note eventually emerge, expanding to cover the entire bouquet. (Note: Pristine bottle condition; excellent fill level, no leaks, and the cork was whole and barely stained).

 

Palate: It simulates weightlessness and freshness, suggesting fragility. Far from it! It is compact and possesses a formidable structure; solid, firm, and dense, yet equally elegant. It lacks a certain degree of depth to reach higher scores, likely a characteristic of the vintage. It maintains correct acidity, suggesting it is currently in a more than adequate drinking window.

 

Commentary

The 1966 Gran Reserva is a Monte Real of immense pleasure that stands apart from other analogous vintages. While the nose initially presents a rugged, earthy profile, the palate reveals a surprising structural density that belies its pale appearance. It is a "sturdy" red that showcases the reliable aging capacity of Cenicero’s traditional winemaking, even in years that demand more patience from the taster.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 92