Beronia 1981 Gran Reserva

Wine: Beronia 1981 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Beronia (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura.
ABV: 12.5% vol. 

Winemaking

Grapes sourced from clay-limestone soils surrounding the municipality of Ollauri in Rioja Alta. The wine remained in vats until the completion of all fermentations. It was then racked into semi-used 225-liter American oak barrels for a 54-month aging period, with periodic rackings performed throughout the first four years. Bottled in April 1989. It rested for a minimum of 36 months in the winery’s cellars prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium-high depth; clear, brilliant, and clean. It displays pomegranate and amber reflections. The rim is narrow and tawny/brick-colored, showing a marked contrast against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Very similar in form to the 1982 Beronia due to its vivacity and fullness, though with a slightly more classical profile and a pronounced expression of its elevage. Upon opening, it is powerful and expressive. Abundant notes of exotic woods, high-quality toast, cocoa, and freshly ground coffee give way to a greater presence of candied red fruit, finely spiced with cloves, ginger, and anise. It maintains balance and stature. Hints of blonde tobacco, stable, and vanilla emerge, joined by an elegant, almost vegetal backdrop of ivy and sage. An excellent Beronia: rational and well-ordered.

 

Palate: Refined and fresh on the palate; less generous and powerful than its 1982 sibling, yet with aging potential that recalls the extraordinary 1978, 1975, and 1973 Gran Reservas. Fine, elegant, and classical to the core. It still needs to tame its intense acidity with a few more years in the bottle, but it already provides immense pleasure. One of those early-era Beronias, prior to the arrival of González Byass, well-crafted and devoid of artifice, fully justifying the winery's reputation at the time. 

 

Commentary

The 1981 Gran Reserva is a magnificent example of Beronia’s foundational style. It captures the essence of Ollauri’s terroir with a precision that bridges the gap between youthful acidity and tertiary complexity. A "classicist" wine that rewards patience, standing as a testament to the rigorous traditional winemaking that defined the estate before its corporate transition.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 94