Gonzalo de Berceo 1978 Gran Reserva

Wine: Gonzalo de Berceo 1978 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berceo (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano.
ABV: 12% vol. 

Winemaking:
Grapes sourced from estate vineyards and smallholders in Rioja Alta. The wine spent 12 months in large wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. It matured for a period between 24 and 36 months in neutral 225-liter American oak barrels. Total production reached 109,840 bottles (70 cl). A minimum of 6 years of bottle aging in the winery’s ancient cellars on Calle de las Cuevas in Haro was required prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby color with medium-low depth; very clear, evolved, and limpid, with no sediment. Featuring brilliant coppery reflections. Broad brick-orange rim, showing almost no variation against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Medium-intensity aromas following a very classical style, reminiscent of a Faustino Gran Reserva with two decades less of age. It presents all the fundamental descriptors of the genre: initially filled with sweet spices—cinnamon, nutmeg—and a high-quality smoky and creamy (toffee) oak character. Nuances of English tobacco, molasses, and orange marmalade emerge, alongside an aniseed-like background of fennel and licorice. Very mature and notably evolved, though entirely pleasant. With aeration, it gains intensity, revealing old leather, stable notes, and humus.

 

Palate: Slender and effortless on the palate. Savory and fresh, it features a trail of reduced red fruit driven by a more than correct acidity that breathes significant life into the ensemble. Polished and rounded, with "invisible" tannins smoothed by the years, leading to a very intense spicy finish. It proves more vital than initially suggested, although it conveys the sensation of having reached its final stage of evolution.

 

Commentary:
The 1978 Gonzalo de Berceo is a dignified and highly drinkable example of Haro’s traditional winemaking. While it shows clear signs of being in its twilight years, its vibrant acidity keeps it standing with poise. It is a wine to be enjoyed immediately, offering a nostalgic and well-resolved sensory experience for those who appreciate the fully tertiary and fragile side of aged Rioja.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 90