Beronia 1978 Gran Reserva

Wine: Beronia 1978 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Beronia (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura.
ABV: 13% vol.

Winemaking:
Grapes sourced from clay-limestone vineyards around Ollauri in Rioja Alta. Fermentation took place in tanks until completion. The wine was then racked into semi-neutral 225-liter American oak barrels, where it aged for 54 months. Periodic rackings were performed throughout the first four years. Bottled in mid-1986, it rested for a minimum of 36 months in the winery’s subterranean cellars prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium-high depth; well-extracted and brilliant. Featuring radiant coppery and garnet reflections. Narrow, fully brick-orange rim, clearly defined against the meniscus. It shows thick, persistent legs and a notable sense of viscosity.

 

Nose: A potent and highly personal Beronia with a frank, slightly balsamic expression. Initially, it shows a "Cabernet-like" wildness—nearly vegetal, with hints of paprika and bramble followed by a backdrop of ivy, laurel bundles, and rock tea. It is significantly less classical than the 1973 or 1975 vintages, stripped of excessive creamy oak. Finely spiced, it reveals star anise, ginger, and an exotic touch of citronella. It suggests an evident shift in winemaking that adds a unique, albeit polarizing, character.

 

Palate: Thick and concentrated on the palate; forceful and savory. It is packed with spicy notes and high-quality refined bitters. The tannins remain firm and present, still possessing a youthful edge. Its sparkling acidity indicates substantial cellaring potential. The fruit is sweet, reduced, and peppery. While it currently lacks total order, its vigor is remarkable—"it’s still a youngster."

 

Commentary:
The 1978 Beronia Gran Reserva is a disconcerting yet fascinating wine that breaks away from the house's more conventional classical lines. Its untamed energy and vegetal complexity mark it as a standout vintage that demands time and aeration to settle. It is a robust red that explains why the winery garnered such significant interest during this period, offering a glimpse into a bolder, more structural style of Rioja Alta.

 

Personal Score: 91
Tasting Group Average: 89