Paternina 1970 Gran Reserva

Wine: Paternina 1970 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Federico Paternina (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano.
ABV: (Not specified) 

Winemaking:
A selection of grapes from various estate-owned plots in Rioja Alta and local producers. The wine spent 12 to 18 months in large foundational-era wooden vats to complete fermentation and stabilize before racking. It was primarily aged in neutral 225-liter American oak barrels (and other formats) for a period between 48 and 60 months, undergoing periodic manual rackings. Bottled in mid-1977, it rested for at least 3 years in the winery’s cellars, being released upon market demand. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby color with medium-low depth; remarkably clear, showing a sense of advanced evolution. It features brick-red, amber, and coppery reflections with a matte finish. Fine suspended particles are present, which do not fully settle. Broad brick-orange rim.

 

Nose: Confirms the initial impression of a highly evolved wine. Medium-intensity aromas reveal spirituous notes and a subtle medicinal, rancio character, with hints of balsam, wine-soaked staves, stable, and a discrete, almost animal-like leather backdrop. It breathes slowly, shedding the weight of the years to reveal creamier notes, nutmeg, and hints of yerba mate and orange peel. Increasing nuances of aromatic herbs, rock tea, and dried leaves emerge. A profile rich in detail, though notably marked by time.

 

Palate: The palate offers the wine’s finest attributes. It is fresh, acidic, and nervous, endowed with the intense acidity characteristic of historic Paternina vintages, which masterfully balances any potential excess of sweetness. A trail of vanilla merges with reduced red fruit and refined bitter notes. It remains highly pleasurable and vital in its drinking experience.

 

Commentary:
The 1970 Paternina Gran Reserva is a wine that wears its age with a certain rustic dignity. While the nose reflects its long journey through the decades with a more evolved and tertiary profile, the palate remains surprisingly energetic and sharp. It is an excellent example of the "old school" style of Ollauri, where the vibrant acidity acts as a life-support system for the wine’s fading fruit. 

 

Personal Score: 91
Tasting Group Average: 90