Marqués del Puerto 1985 Gran Reserva

Wine: Marqués del Puerto 1985 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Marqués del Puerto (Fuenmayor, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 6% Mazuelo, 4% Graciano
ABV: 12.5% vol.
Winemaking:
Grapes sourced from estate vineyards and leased plots (40%) from various Rioja Alta producers, acquired both as grapes and as finished wine. The wine rests for 12 months in tanks to complete fermentations and stabilize before racking. It matures for 36 months in semi-used 225-liter American oak barrels, subjected to two or three manual rackings per year. Aged for a minimum of three years in the bottle within the winery's cellars before its commercial release in mid-1993.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Garnet-ruby color with medium-high depth; dark, opaque, and somewhat matte. Orange and reddish reflections. Fine tears and a notable sense of viscosity. Broad coppery rim, sharply defined against the meniscus.
 
Nose: Medium intensity with a dominance of woody notes—staves, wine-soaked oak, and rackings—alongside a curious background of herbaceous stems, scrubland, and vegetable fibers like esparto. It maintains a pronounced initial reduction that limits further aromatic development. Gradually, traces of reduced red fruit emerge with a liqueur-like touch, supporting notes of aromatic herbs, apothecary hints, and a suggestion of leather. While it struggles to fully open, it maintains its dignity.
 
Palate: Balanced and creamy, infused with vanilla and sweet spices. Smooth on the entry, though it appears somewhat lacking in acidity. It sits in a stylistic limbo between a traditional Riojan Gran Reserva and a more modern approach, making it difficult to categorize. It lacks intensity and concentration but remains flaw-free. Spicy and easy to drink.
 
Commentary:
An intriguing first encounter with Marqués del Puerto that leaves a sense of surprise. It lacks the typical profile expected from Rioja Alta, and specifically from Fuenmayor. While functional and accessible, it is somewhat anonymous in character. It will be interesting to observe the evolution of subsequent vintages from this winery.
 
Personal Score: 82
Tasting Group Average: 83

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