Viña Pomal 1985 Gran Reserva

Wine: Viña Pomal 1985 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Bilbaínas (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 85% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo and Graciano
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking:
The wine remains in stainless steel tanks for fermentation and stabilization before being racked for wood aging. It matures in used 225-liter American oak barrels for 60 months, with periodic rackings every 6-9 months to avoid filtration before bottling. Traditional fining with fresh egg whites. Aged for a minimum of 4 years in the winery’s underground bottle racks before commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby color with medium depth; clear, yet slightly clouded by very fine suspended particles that did not settle after a week in a vertical position. Orange reflections, lacking brilliance. Broad, tile-colored (atejado) rim.

 

Nose: Somewhat sparse in aromas and low in initial intensity. Dominant notes of old leather and a background of cigar ash, toast, and fireplace. It struggles to open up, although it shows no clear signs of fatigue. Three different bottles showed the same consistency. Over an hour, faint hints of wine-soaked staves and wood appear, eventually revealing red fruits in liqueur. Monotonous.

 

Palate: Light-bodied and surprisingly thin as it flows. No major sharp edges; toasty, with some dairy and creamy notes that contrast with its sharp acidity. Something doesn't quite fit—it maintains a woody registry that wasn't detected in previous vintages. Could it be new barrels or a change in vineyard sourcing? Drinkable, but far from an exemplary Viña Pomal.

 

Commentary:
The 1980s do not seem to have suited Bodegas Bilbaínas particularly well. While the wine is functional, it lacks the depth and soul of the winery's earlier decades.

 

Personal Score: 84
Tasting Group Average: 82