Lagunilla 1973 Gran Reserva

Wine: Lagunilla 1973 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Lagunilla (Fuenmayor, La Rioja)
Appellation: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 85% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha
ABV: [Not specified]

Winemaking
Crafted following traditional Riojan techniques. Hand-harvested in 15 kg crates. Fermentation took place in large wooden tuns, followed by 18 months in tanks. The wine was aged for nearly 6 years in American oak barrels. Clarified with fresh egg whites and bottled in late 1979. It rested for four years in the winery before its commercial release in 1984.

Background Information
The Gran Reserva was Lagunilla’s most emblematic wine, ranked among the great Rioja classics alongside labels from López de Heredia, La Rioja Alta, Marqués de Riscal, and Marqués de Murrieta. Quality standards were so rigorous that it was only produced twice during the 1970s (1970 and 1973). It was primarily destined for the Anglo-Saxon market, where consumers favored more potent and tannic profiles.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Luminous ruby of medium-low depth, with reddish and orange highlights. Clean and bright, with a broad rim showing minimal variation against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Absolute elegance, defined by a marked tertiary character and deep spiciness (a potpourri of freshly ground peppercorns, Sichuan pepper, aromatic resins, incense, smoke, flint, and gunpowder). Powerful and profoundly complex. The bouquet evokes a beautiful autumnal walk: shaded forest floor, wet earth, black truffle, chestnut groves, and charcoal. As it breathes, it reveals the atmosphere of a noble smoking room: exotic woods (cedar, cayenne, sandalwood shavings), tung oil varnish, waxed floors, cured leather, cigar box, ash, and damp cigar bands. A trace of very ripe fruit emerges, bringing hints of bitter preserves, sour cherries, and raisins.

 

Palate: It jolts the palate with a sparkling initial acidity. Vibrant, fresh, and refined; exceptionally elegant yet possessing a solid framework of immense complexity. The tannins are ethereal and vaporous in texture, seamlessly woven into a flow of sweet citrus, toasted notes, elegant bitters, vanilla, and licorice. It lingers on the palate like the finest things in life. Exceptionally long and superb. In many ways, it is reminiscent of the Marqués de Villamagna 1973 Gran Reserva, showing clear vintage similarities and an ultra-classical profile.

 

Personal Score: 97
Tasting Group Score: 97

Tasting Notes (2012-04-16)

 

Appearance: Very pale ruby of medium-low depth; it possesses the appearance of a clarete. Clear and bright with orange highlights.

 

Nose: Open and powerful, profoundly spiced (smoked black pepper, nutmeg, panellets) with a creamy toasted backdrop. It is overwhelming in its balance and classicism, as well as in the deep elegance of its tertiary profile: exotic woods, birch, and Russian leather. The fruit emerges gradually—slightly liqueur-like—with hints of orange peel and macerated plums. Earthy and mineral. Finesse, finesse, and more finesse. An excellent exemplar of classic Rioja.

 

Palate: A total "bombshell" on the palate, driven by an all-encompassing acidity—a true spark. The entry is pure silk with caressing tannins. Deeply tertiary, showing noble woods and orange marmalade. Everything is perfectly in place, displaying immense harmony and roundness. Impossible to forget. Spectacular. It is a tragedy that contemporary Lagunilla wines are but a shadow of their former selves, now relegated to supermarket shelves. They bear no resemblance to the legendary wines produced in the 60s and 70s. The quality standards were once so rigorous that during the 1970s, this wine was only crafted twice (1970 and 1973). These bottles are nearly impossible to find, yet they reward every effort.

 

Personal Score: 95
Tasting Group Score: 96