Amontillado Viejísimo Solera 1922

Wine: Amontillado Viejísimo Solera 1922

Winery: Toro Albalá
Appellation: D.O. Montilla-Moriles
Varietals: 100% Pedro Ximénez
ABV: 21% 

Winemaking
Grapes sourced from vineyards planted in albariza (chalky) soils. Traditional vinification. The base wine is fermented, and by December or January, a layer of yeast (velo de flor) develops on the surface, enabling biological aging. After several years, the flor disappears, and the wine is transferred to undergo oxidative aging through the soleras and criaderas system in American oak casks. The average aging period is between 25 and 30 years, with the foundation criadera dating back to 1922.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Dark amber with brownish and orange highlights; fine, persistent legs.

 

Nose: Good intensity, though somewhat "hard" upon opening, showing reductive sensations reminiscent of gunpowder, almost sulfurous, and acetone. It evolves toward more pungent notes of shelled nuts (hazelnuts, almonds), lemon peel, bergamot, and rosemary honey. A very fine, slightly sweet accent emerges, joined by vegetal hints of grass and watercress.

 

Palate: Medium-bodied with a vibrant acidity; bone-dry. The tannins show a slight woodiness. The finish is intense, spiced, and bitter.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Score: 91

Oenological Perspective: The Grandeur of Toro Albalá

The wines of Toro Albalá represent the pinnacle of Andalusian fortified wines. Their aged range—including the Amontillado Convento 1971 and the Convento 1950 (aged for 48 years in cask)—stands at the very top of the category. Their Pedro Ximénez labels, marketed under the Don PX brand, span from youthful Dulce de Postre (including organic versions) to the historic Gran Reserva vintages of 1971, 1972, 1975, 1979, and 1982, all of which benefit significantly from further bottle aging. At the high end, these wines rival the finest Sherries from Jerez, featuring icons such as the Marqués de Poley 1945 (500 bottles) or the legendary Bacchus 1939, which famously includes a notarized certificate of authenticity for its scarce 1,000-bottle production.

 

Technical Profile: A Singular Amontillado

The Amontillado Solera 1922 is an extraordinarily dry, aged wine that defies typical Andalusian standards, especially considering its exceptional price point. It possesses a singular character that may even disappoint those accustomed to more conventional profiles due to its peculiar traits: sharp acidity, herbaceous notes, extreme bitterness, and a certain initial lack of balance. However, its "razor-sharp" acidity promises excellent bottle evolution and long-term cellaring potential. In certain aspects, it evokes the character of a classic rancio, offering a unique experience for those seeking complexity beyond the norm.