Fondillón Brotons Gran Reserva 1970

Wine: Fondillón Brotons 1970 Gran Reserva
Winery: Brotons - Bodegas y Viñedos Culebrón (Alicante, Spain)
Appellation: D.O. Alicante
Varietals: 100% Monastrell
ABV: 18% 

Winemaking
Grapes sourced from a selection of centenarian vines (over 100 years old). Traditional hand-harvesting followed by manual pressing and foot-treading. The wine underwent extensive aging in legacy oak tuns. Limited production of 10,000 bottles. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: A beautiful dark amber color with mahogany and iodized highlights. It appears cloudy, with some suspended particles and sediment. 

 

Nose: High intensity, initially dominated by notes of wine-soaked wood, old solera, fine cabinetry, and varnish. A slight hint of cellar humidity is present, which fades after several hours of aeration. In many aspects, it resembles a slightly off-dry rancio, revealing nuts and raisined black fruit beneath a veil of old oak and spiced grape skins.

 

Palate: Broad and warm; approachable and light on the palate, with some subtle alcoholic edges that stand out. The interplay between bitter and slightly sweet notes provides complexity to the ensemble, alongside nuances of vanilla and spices.

 

Personal Score: 89
Tasting Group Score: 88

Oenological Perspective: The Heroic Resistance of Fondillón

Traditional fortified wines seem to live in a state of permanent crisis, yet they have heroically resisted disappearing in favor of modern, fresh, and fruity trends. The few winegrowers still committed to producing classic Alicante Fondillón have successfully transitioned from bulk wine production to a high-quality, niche market. Such is the case with Brotons. Despite the modernization of their facilities and the introduction of stainless steel and monovarietal lines, their flagship product remains untouched. To achieve this, they continue to nurture centenarian, low-yield Monastrell vines, using large American oak casks as the only vessel capable of aging this piece of Levantine history. The traditional method has barely changed in a century, ensuring the continuity of this unique rancio style.

 

Service Note: The Virtue of Patience

The 1970 Brotons Gran Reserva is unique in its genre. It presents as somewhat more closed than its peers, with a slightly more abocado (off-dry) perception on the palate. To truly appreciate its depth, it is essential to allow the wine to settle and gain complexity through aeration; immediate consumption upon opening may disappoint those expecting a quick revelation. This is a wine that demands and rewards patience.