Paternina Cepa Chablis 1942 Blanco

Wine: Paternina Cepa Chablis 1942 Blanco

Winery: Federico Paternina (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Viura, 10% Malvasía Riojana, Garnacha Blanca, and other local varieties.
ABV: [Not specified]
Winemaking

Grapes sourced primarily from estate-owned vineyards and from the "cabezadas" (upper sections) of red grape plots belonging to various local growers. Initial fermentation took place in foundational-era oak vats for 18 months before being racked for aging. It was matured for 60 to 72 months in seasoned American oak barrels of various sizes, mainly 225 liters. Bottled directly from the cask in 1950. A minimum of 3 years of bottle aging in the winery’s underground cellars was completed prior to release. 

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Old-gold color leaning towards amber; somewhat dark yet bright and luminous. Absence of any sediment; pristine, showing golden and orange highlights with a significant sense of density, forming broad legs (tears).

 

Nose: Soft and candied, with good intensity—open and expressive. It initially reveals aromas of roasted apple, toffee, quince paste, and white flowers, alongside pastry notes (Spanish Coca de San Juan, German butter brioche, candied fruit), vanilla, and nutmeg. A curious and increasingly prominent "fairground" hint emerges, reminiscent of cotton candy, candied apples, and red fruit. Highly mature and showing almost no reductive nuances. It evolves with a greater presence of honeycomb, beeswax, and a fine patina of seasoned wood. One might expect more tertiary signs of old age, but no! It suggests the profile of a classic Riojan semi-sweet or abocado wine, were we not aware it is a dry white. Unique, with a marked personality.

 

Palate: Full-bodied with a honeyed texture; concentrated, featuring a very pleasant sweet hint counterbalanced by a lively acidity. A well-settled, seamlessly integrated white without a single hard edge, where it is difficult to distinguish the nuances of stewed fruit from the wood and white spices. This is another example of the great wines that have fallen into oblivion despite being the hallmark of Federico Paternina for decades. Anyone who still believes Viura is a minor variety should taste these old whites and reconsider.

 

Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Score: 97