Viña Tondonia 1992 Blanco Reserva

Wine: Viña Tondonia 1992 Blanco Reserva

Winery: R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Viura, 10% Malvasía
ABV: 12.5%
Winemaking

Hand-harvested. Fermentation in old 60-hectoliter oak vats without temperature control. The wine was aged for 6 years in 225-liter American oak barrels, undergoing two manual rackings per year. Fined with fresh egg whites and bottled directly from the barrel without filtration. Limited production of 16,800 bottles (75 cl). It remained in the winery’s underground cellars for a minimum of 9 years prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Very intense golden-amber; the most evolved of all the early 1990s vintages. It shows orange highlights and a strong sense of density, with thick, permanent legs (tears).

 

Nose: Somewhat shy at first, with medium intensity. It fails to fully unfurl even after a couple of hours of tasting. Initially dominated by classic Riojan aging aromas—wine-soaked staves, honeycomb—and a disconcerting hint of incense and spices (nutmeg, curry) that flicker in and out. There are notes of stone fruit, fig cake, bitter orange marmalade, bitter almonds, and soft oxidative (enranciado) nuances. Correct, without excesses.

 

Palate: Candied on the palate and less lively than other vintages. It maintains the winery's hallmarks but at a lower level of intensity than usual. It shows a significant dose of overripe fruit, honeyed notes, and dried apricots, with a touch of sweetness and a very slight excess of vanillic oak that has not fully integrated. A minor disappointment. To our taste, this is the weakest Reserva produced since the 6º Año Blanco was discontinued in 1981. It is somewhat lean on freshness, and one misses more "grip" and energy.

 

Personal Score: 87
Tasting Group Score: 89