Viña Tondonia 1997 Blanco Reserva

Wine: Viña Tondonia 1997 Blanco Reserva
Winery: R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Viura, 10% Malvasía
ABV: 12.5%
Winemaking

Hand-harvested. Fermentation in old 60-hectoliter oak vats without temperature control. The wine was aged for 6 years in 225-liter American oak barrels, undergoing two manual rackings (trasiegas) per year. Fined with fresh egg whites and bottled directly from the barrel without filtration. It remained in the winery’s underground cellars for a minimum of 9 years prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Luminous and lively golden yellow; it conveys a lesser sense of density than the early 1990s vintages (very similar to the 1998). It shows amber and copper highlights. 

 

Nose: Somewhat elusive upon opening, struggling to fully unfurl. Initially, slightly reductive notes appear—old furniture, lacquer, honeycomb, seasoned staves—alongside a suspicious, disjointed liqueur-like trail. After two hours of bottle aeration (without decanting), it slowly opens up to reveal a very classic profile, though it suffers from a lack of depth. Aromas of dried fruits, apricots, orange blossom honey, creamy nuances, cocoa butter, and vanilla emerge, with a spicy background hint of star anise. Predictable.

 

Palate: Lighter on the palate than expected, driven by a high-strung acidity that feels detached from the core. It features bitter nuances, balsams, toasted notes, and seasoned wood, alongside sweet hints of raisins. It lacks balance and integration. This Tondonia Reserva is clearly inferior to other recent vintages; the 1996 and 1998, currently available, are not only excellent but also possess greater potential. A wine in need of time to round out, though it doesn’t seem that will be the case here. 

 

Personal Score: 87
Tasting Group Score: 88