Berberana 1978 Reserva

Wine: Berberana 1978 Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Berberana (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 60% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 18% Mazuelo, 2% Graciano
ABV: [Not specified]
Winemaking

Initially aged for 12 months in large, foundational-era seasoned oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. It subsequently underwent 36 to 42 months of aging in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels with an average age of 10 years. Lightly filtered and bottled in mid-1984. A minimum of 24 months of bottle aging in the winery’s underground cellars was completed before its release in January 1987. 

 

Tasting Notes
 

Appearance: Bright, clear reddish-ruby with medium depth; luminous with pomegranate and copper highlights. It features a broad orange rim that contrasts sharply with the meniscus.

 

Nose: A red of a very traditional character—settled and well-defined. Of medium intensity and soft, it gains aromatic presence with aeration. Initially, it reveals fine woods, cedar, birch, cigar humidor, and aged leather, followed by a growing note of concentrated red fruit (sloe, strawberry tree fruit), slightly liqueur-like and spicy. Remarkably sound and solid; it never faltered throughout a five-hour tasting. It becomes increasingly earthy and autumnal, showing aromas of shaded forest floor, leaf litter, and gunpowder.

 

Palate: Fresh, light-bodied, dry, and very austere on the palate. A red without excesses, remarkably pleasant to drink, with ultra-fine tannins and present acidity. It follows a style that can only be described as "Berberiano"—well-known and highly regarded. The finish is long and candied, with a strong spicy sensation on the finish (retronasal). An excellent Berberana from the late 70s; among the best from this house tasted to date. It is at least on par with the 1973 Gran Reserva—which already saw a reduction from 5 to 3 years in wood—and far superior to that endearing "false Crianza" that was the Carta de Oro. One of the final vintages crafted before the passing of Melquíades Entrena, which would eventually lead the company into the Rumasa era. We are fortunate to still have wines like this that testify to the historic craftsmanship of this legendary Riojan winery.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Score: 91