Beronia 1991 Gran Reserva

Wine: Beronia 1991 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Beronia (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Graciano, Viura.
ABV: 13% vol. 

Winemaking
Grapes sourced from clay-limestone vineyards in the surroundings of Ollauri. The wine was aged for 34 months in 225-liter American oak barrels. Bottled in June 1995, it rested for a minimum of 24 months in the winery’s underground cellars prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color of medium-high depth; opaque, brilliant, and very clean. It displays effulgent, vivid coppery and garnet reflections. The narrow orange rim shows a marked distinction from the meniscus. Notably more concentrated and extracted than Beronia’s previous releases.

 

Nose: An open, expressive, and immediate wine that unfolds with ease. A sweet, almost off-dry note predominates, bringing forth a wealth of red fruit preserves (cherries, strawberry tree fruit, pomegranate) with a spirituous hint of sloe, kirsch, and sweet spices. These are accompanied by notes of orange biscotti, toffee, and vanilla cream. It gradually decelerates, gaining vegetal and balsamic nuances—ivy and sage—alongside more intense toasted notes of charcoal and flint, leaning towards a mineral and earthy character. A curious and diverse profile that sits apart from the winery’s traditional prototype.

 

Palate: Powerful and mature on the palate; well-extracted and endowed with firm, still-present tannins and well-judged acidity. It is rich in off-dry notes of tart fruit and soft, sweet citrus. The oak is well-integrated; while it lacks the house’s classic profile, its origin remains clearly recognizable. A singular red, standing midway between traditional styles and the "New Rioja," yet one that is enjoyed with great relish.

 

Commentary
The 1991 vintage represents a stylistic shift for Beronia, offering more muscle and extraction than expected. It is a transitional wine that captures the spirit of change in Rioja during the early 90s, maintaining enough freshness to remain balanced while exploring a bolder, more fruit-forward path.

 

Personal Score: 91
Tasting Group Average: 90