Conde de los Andes 1989 Gran Reserva

Wine: Conde de los Andes 1989 Gran Reserva
Winery: Federico Paternina (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo, 10% Graciano.
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking
The wine spends 12 months in seasoned wooden vats to complete fermentation and settle before racking. It is then aged in semi-seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels for a period of 36 months. A minimum of 60 months of bottle aging in the historic underground cellars of Ollauri is required prior to its commercial release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Brilliant ruby color of medium body; clear and clean. It shows reddish and amber reflections with a wide, tawny rim that blends seamlessly into the meniscus.
 
Nose: Initially shy and austere, struggling to express itself. It offers a faint glimmer of fine woods (cedar, birch) and a spicy backdrop that leaves a subtle trail of clove and bay leaf. Everything is very reserved and understated. Gradually, soft creamy notes emerge, leaning towards a more classic profile. Hints of pipe tobacco, cigar box, and macerated, candied fruit—plums, dried apricots, and orange marmalade—begin to surface.
 
Palate: Extremely polished and rounded on the palate, featuring plush, caressing tannins supported by sufficient acidity to keep the ensemble alive. Savory, with highly reduced yet fresh red fruit and pleasant bitter nuances. One of the many late-80s vintages of Conde de los Andes that excels in manners but leaves one slightly unsatisfied. It possesses poise and refinement in abundance but lacks depth and "bite." Correct, orderly—perhaps excessively so.
 
Commentary
This 1989 Gran Reserva is a textbook example of a "polite" Rioja. While technically flawless and impeccably behaved in the glass, it misses that extra layer of intensity or soul found in the region's most legendary years. It is a reliable, well-mannered classic that delivers a pleasant experience without ever breaking its formal composure.
 
Personal Score: 88
Tasting Group Average: 89

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