Paternina Blanco Seco 1964

Wine: Paternina Blanco Seco 1964
Winery: Federico Paternina (Ollauri, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Viura, 10% Malvasía.
ABV: — (Not specified)

Winemaking

Grapes sourced primarily from estate vineyards and the upper sections (cabezadas) of red grape plots from various local growers. Harvested very early—up to 2 weeks before other Rioja producers—to ensure lower ripeness levels and greater aging potential, as well as to facilitate the separation of white and red varieties. Initial fermentation took place in wooden vats from the winery's founding era for 18 to 24 months before racking. The wine matured for a minimum of 36 months in used American oak barrels of various capacities, mainly 225-liter. Bottled directly from the barrel. It underwent a minimum of 2 years of bottle aging in the historic cellars of Ollauri prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Very light yellow color, almost pale; limpid and devoid of any sediment. An impossible hue for a wine reaching 50 years of age. Featuring vivid, sparkling reflections. The epitome of a perfectly cellared wine untouched by time; it is transparency itself.

 

Nose: Exquisite, fresh, and mature, without a trace of reductive notes. A window open to the most fragrant of gardens. It breathes the sweetness of white flowers, acacia, Spanish broom, sun-warmed lemons, and mown grass. It reflects absolute cleanliness and freshness. Gradually, creamy notes of biscotti and orange-filled wafers emerge, alongside carquiñoles, all over a very fine vanilla backdrop. Supremely elegant and marvelous. It evolves slowly without faltering, becoming increasingly pure and lean, exhaling whiffs of flint, smoke, and earthy nuances.

 

Palate: The most definitive "Paternina" of all whites tasted to date. It unfolds with such roundness that it transcends boundaries. Spherical and seamlessly integrated, tempering a certain lusciousness with a piercing thrust of acidity. Fruity, mature, and diaphanous, with an endless finish. It surely has another 40 to 50 years ahead. Rioja works miracles like this: a chalice in the glass. A haunting wine that awakens greed.

 

Commentary

The 1964 Blanco Seco is a masterclass in the longevity of Rioja whites. The decision for an early harvest has paid dividends in the form of a vibrant, electric acidity that continues to sustain the wine half a century later. It is a pure, unadulterated expression of the Ollauri style—ethereal yet grounded—standing as a benchmark for what a world-class aged white should be.

 

Personal Score: 99
Tasting Group Average: 99

Tasting Notes (16/06/2014)

 

Appearance: Yellow color, brilliant and remarkably clean, with golden and greenish reflections. Strikingly pale, vivid, and effulgent. Fine, persistent tears suggest a clear sense of density. The unusual transparency and lack of oxidation in a wine over 50 years old defies all logic. (Note: High-quality cork, barely stained, elastic and extracted in one piece, appearing almost new).

 

Nose: Initially somewhat shy, requiring aeration after so much time constrained within the glass. There is not the slightest hint of reduction—no wax, honey, or dried fruits. Very clean, it is braced by a light citric note reminiscent of lemon brine that gains intensity, leading to a fine creamy patina of puff pastry and a fleeting glimpse of stone fruit. While it initially suggests a delicate path of white flowers and fragrant acacia, it takes an unexpected turn. The twist reveals pure, naked terroir: calcareous verticality, flint, smoke, and chalk, with an overwhelming, almost pungent intensity that occupies the entire bouquet. Emotional and authentic.

 

Palate: It maintains the Paternina hallmarks: an intense core of freshness, nerve, and a firm resolve to keep the oak influence to a minimum. Somewhat thick, almost creamy, with ripe fruit and a citric acidity that borders on perfection. It is in a proverbial state of roundness and integration. Not a single toasted note is out of place, nor is there any bitterness. Savory and spherical, offering that slightly off-dry note (abocado) so characteristic of Paternina whites. A monumental wine from start to finish.

 

Commentary

This second tasting confirms the 1964 Blanco Seco as a structural titan. The transition from delicate floral notes to a "stinking" mineral intensity demonstrates a complexity rarely seen in aged whites. It is a wine that rejects the typical tertiary evolution of its peers, opting instead for a display of chalky power and crystalline purity. A definitive bottle that justifies the legendary status of the Ollauri cellars.

 

Personal Score: 98
Tasting Group Average: —