La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1959

Wine: La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1959

Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo.
ABV: 13.5% vol.

Winemaking

Tempranillo sourced from the oldest estate vineyards in Rioja Alta (Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba), with the remainder from the Melchorón I and II estates. Grapes were selected upon arrival at the winery. The wine remained for 12 to 18 months in centennial oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize. It was then racked into 225-liter American oak barrels, crafted by the house cooperage, for an 84-month aging period with a total of 12 manual rackings in the emblematic Vigier cellar. Bottled directly from the barrel, unfiltered. Limited production of 7,100 bottles (75 cl). It underwent a minimum of 72 months of bottle aging prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium-high depth; significantly darker than analogous vintages. Clean yet opaque, with subdued brilliance. Minimal orange rim, clearly marked against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Perfumed and elegant, showcasing all the house's signature traits. An exceptional bottle of "890" that proves to be as classic, if not more so, than the 1955 vintage. It follows the same lineage of settled aromas: noble woods, cedar, and old leather, but with a greater presence of reduced red fruit and wilted flowers. It grows continuously, gaining stature and, above all, finesse and elegance, reaching a level of complexity and detail that overwhelms. Unlike other vintages, this one is perhaps slightly more marked by creamy oak nuances.

 

Palate: Robust, sullen, and less given to flourishes than expected. Initially dry—very dry—but featuring spherical tannins and an antithesis of sweetness that provides the perfect counterpoint. Spicy notes, smoke, and a high-quality earthy background occasionally overshadow the hauntingly beautiful traces of reduced red fruit in liqueur. Fresh and apparently light, yet concentrated and possessing a vibrant acidity.

 

Commentary

The 1959 Gran Reserva 890 is in a spectacular window of consumption. It is a "true" wine that combines a sturdy, almost stoic structure with a stratospheric level of tertiary elegance. The 1950s bottlings of "890" represent some of the most profound expressions of traditional Rioja ever produced, and this 1959 stands as a monumental pillar of that legacy. A legendary red at its peak.

 

Personal Score: 98
Tasting Group Average: 98