La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1987

Wine: La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 1987
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo.
ABV: 12.5% vol.

Winemaking

Tempranillo sourced from the oldest estate vineyards in Rioja Alta, primarily from Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba, with the remainder from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno. Fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine remained for 6 months in centennial oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation. In May 1988, it was racked into 225-liter American oak barrels for a 60-month aging period, with a total of 10 manual rackings. Bottled directly from the barrel, unfiltered, in June 1993.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium depth; brilliant and remarkably clean. Effulgent, with coppery and amber reflections. Wide, orange rim.

 

Nose: Upon opening, we find a "904" in a state of grace—communicative and fully expressive, recalling the legendary series of 1964-68-70. There is no room for subtlety here; it is a direct, profound red at its absolute zenith. It offers hints of balsam and apothecary herbs, aromatic herbs, fruit compote (strawberry tree, sloes), and a patina of exotic woods and aromatic coffee. It overwhelms with its intensity and multitude of details, despite a certain lack of order in its aromatic stampede. Further notes of clove, wet staves, lacquer, resin, and oregano continue to emerge.

 

Palate: Concentrated and vivid on the palate, sharpened by a ruthless thrust of acidity that provides an excessive, almost piercing freshness. There is an abundance of spicy, reduced red fruit. It remains "raw," yet to be fully rounded, possessing immense aging potential. It contrasts sharply with the nose—a wine of excessive character, untamed, rocky, and tough to crack.

 

Commentary

The 1987 Gran Reserva 904 is an unexpected titan that reaffirms La Rioja Alta as a bastion for traditionalists. It is a wine of staggering intensity that seems to have slipped under the radar until now. While the nose suggests a reached peak, the palate reveals a defiant, indomitable structure that promises decades of further evolution. A truly monumental Rioja that surprises with its sheer power and acidic nerve.

 

Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Average: 95