Conde de Valdemar 1975 Gran Reserva

Wine: Conde de Valdemar 1975 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Martínez Bujanda (Oyón, Álava)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Tempranillo, 20% Mazuelo.
ABV: 13% vol.

Winemaking:
Grapes sourced exclusively from estate-owned vineyards located in all three Rioja sub-zones (Tudelilla, Cenicero, and Oyón). The wine remained in tanks for approximately 6 months to complete fermentation. It was then racked into new 225-liter oak barrels, where it aged for 24 to 36 months, depending on the vintage. A minimum of 3 years of bottle aging in the winery’s cellars was required prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Translucent ruby-brownish color with medium-low depth; very light and clear. Although clean, it shows a significant amount of sediment at the base. Features reddish and orange reflections with a matte finish. Broad brick-orange rim, showing almost no variation against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Initially hesitant and somewhat muted upon opening, requiring aeration to gain definition. It is primarily marked by toasted oak, coffee beans, and creamy notes, alongside blond tobacco, candied fruit, and smoky, lactic hints. While it follows a classical line reminiscent of the 1970 and 1973 vintages, it lacks a certain brilliance and detail, perhaps suggesting a slight fatigue from the passage of time. It eventually improves, revealing pleasant notes of shaded forest floor, humus, walnut bark, and chestnut husks.

 

Palate: Light, smooth, and mature. It is well-settled on the palate, yet still retains a core of very ripe fruit supported by an interesting acidity. Its profile bears a striking resemblance to the Royal or Bordón style from Bodegas Franco-Españolas. It has aged gracefully, though it feels more traditional than its original "innovative" reputation suggested.

 

Commentary:
The 1975 Conde de Valdemar was once considered one of Spain’s most groundbreaking reds upon its release. Today, it presents as a dignified and settled classic Rioja. While it may not fully live up to the high expectations set by its historical price point—once doubling that of legendary contemporaries—it remains a competent and mature example of Martínez Bujanda’s early forays into estate-driven winemaking.

 

Personal Score: 86
Tasting Group Average: 90