Monte Real 1978 Gran Reserva

Wine: Monte Real 1978 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Graciano, 3% other varieties (Viura, Malvasía Riojana).
ABV: 12.5% vol. 

Winemaking:
Initial fermentation and a 12-month maturation took place in old 20,000-liter wooden vats, where the wine completed malolactic fermentation and natural stabilization. Subsequently, it rested for 48 to 60 months in neutral 225-liter American oak barrels, with regular rackings every 8 months. After blending in tanks and a final stabilization period of 6 to 12 months, the wine underwent a minimum of 4 years of bottle aging in the winery’s subterranean cellars prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Medium-depth reddish-ruby color; clear, very clean, and without sediment. Featuring reddish and amber reflections. It conveys a marked sense of viscosity. Broad brick-orange rim.

 

Nose: Extremely potent and untamed upon opening. Initially, it is dominated by rustic notes of stable, damp straw, and a profound scent of esparto grass gear—reminiscent of pack saddles and traditional harnesses. These are followed by animal nuances: game, iron-like hints of blood, and musk. It requires significant aeration to gain restraint and refinement. Gradually, notes of aged wood and wine-soaked vats emerge, giving way to hemp rope, jute sacks, and various vegetal fibers like linen canvas. It eventually opens up to very reduced ripe red fruit, supported by a backdrop of orange zest and black pepper. Concentrated and finely vanillic, with a persistent interplay of toasted notes, cocoa powder, and leather.

 

Palate: Integrated yet retaining the characteristic drive and vigor of a great Monte Real. Dense, lively, and solid, it is endowed with firm tannins and fantastic acidity. The wine continues to expand on the palate, showing high-quality bitter notes that meld with toasted nuances and candied fruit. Savory and remarkably long.

 

Commentary:
The 1978 Monte Real is a masterclass in the "wilder" and more rustic side of traditional Rioja. It is a wine of immense personality that demands patience in the glass to transition from its initial barnyard intensity to its complex, layered core. A quintessential choice for devotees of the Riojanas house style: robust, soulful, and seemingly immortal.

 

Personal Score: 93
Tasting Group Average: 92