Rioja Bordón 1987 Gran Reserva

Wine: Rioja Bordón 1987 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Franco-Españolas (Logroño, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 10% Mazuelo and Graciano.
ABV: 12.5% vol. 

Winemaking:
Following alcoholic fermentation, the wine rested for 12 months in large tanks to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilize before racking. It matured for 36 to 42 months in 225-liter American white oak barrels, both new and semi-neutral. Two manual rackings were performed annually. A minimum of 24 months of bottle aging in the winery’s subterranean cellars was required prior to its commercial release. 

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Very clear brownish-ruby color with medium-low depth; translucent. Featuring brick-red and orange reflections. Broad rim extending across the inner meniscus. It conveys a strong sense of viscosity and high glycerin content, showing large, persistent legs. 

 

Nose: A Bordón perfumed with classical Rioja character; peacefully vanillic and prudent, yet showing no signs of age-related fatigue. It gradually reveals creamy wood notes, traditional "Pilar" candies, and propolis, alongside a trail of ripe red fruit—pomegranate and strawberry tree fruit—that remains in the background. With aeration, it becomes increasingly spicy and expressive, exhaling notes of clove and cinnamon that give way to roasted nuances, toffee, and smoke. Impeccably clean, it hints at the winery's initial foray into French oak, a novelty at the time.

 

Palate: Classically styled, appearing slender yet creamy; remarkably smooth, silky, and rounded to the point of softening its structural edges. Abundant vanilla and polished, almost absent tannins meet a subtle sweetness—once hyperbolically compared to a "café con leche." While it lacks great substance, it is an effortless and balanced red.

 

Commentary:
The 1987 Rioja Bordón represents a transitional style for the winery, moving away from the "claret" profile towards the more modern structure of current vintages. It is a wine characterized by extreme restraint and accessibility. While it may lack the monumental depth of legendary years, its silkiness and clean aromatic profile make it a highly enjoyable example of late-80s Logroño winemaking. 

 

Personal Score: 86
Tasting Group Average: 88