Siglo Etiqueta Verde 1969 Blanco

Wine: Rioja Siglo Etiqueta Verde 1969 Blanco
Winery: Bodegas Félix Azpilicueta Martínez - AGE Bodegas Unidas (Fuenmayor, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 100% Viura.
ABV: 11.5% vol.
Winemaking:
The white grapes were sourced entirely from smallholders in Rioja Alta. Most of the production was vinified in local cooperatives under the supervision of Félix Azpilicueta’s winemakers, while must from nearby growers was vinified and matured at the Fuenmayor facilities. The wine spent 12 months in large foundational wooden vats. After fermentation, it was racked into neutral 225-liter American oak barrels for an aging period of approximately 24 months. It was bottled in 72 cl containers, wrapped in traditional jute sacks, and rested for at least 12 months in the cellars before release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Light amber color; clean and devoid of sediment, maintained by a remarkably high fill level despite initial cork issues. Features vibrant coppery and reddish reflections. (Note: The bottle was examined after removing the jute sack to reveal the transparent glass).
 
Nose: Less oxidative than the 1961 "Etiqueta Verde," requiring neither decanting nor extensive aeration. It leads with a soft rancio character and a persistent sensation of damp staves that remains throughout the tasting. Mature and candied, it reveals citrus notes, orange zest, and intense, intermittent smoky nuances reminiscent of a fireplace. While technically correct, it lacks overall harmony.
 
Palate: A wine with a difficult and aggressive character ("mala ostia"). It displays an uncontrolled acidity within a dry, bitter ensemble. The palate is dominated by toasted, roasted notes from the barrel that overshadow the ripe fruit, which in turn provides a somewhat misplaced sweetness. It lacks integration, a trait it likely never possessed.
 
Commentary:
The 1969 Siglo Etiqueta Verde is a challenging white that prioritizes raw wood influence and sharp acidity over balance. While it shares the legendary longevity of Félix Azpilicueta’s reds, its structural components seem to fight rather than complement each other. It is a rustic and stubborn wine, a curious relic of Fuenmayor’s traditional white winemaking that remains defiant decades after its birth.
 
Personal Score: (Not specified)
Tasting Group Average: (Not specified)

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