La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1985

Wine: La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1985
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo
ABV: 12.5% vol.
Viticulture:
Primary selection conducted in the vineyard. The Tempranillo is sourced from the estate's oldest vineyards in the Rioja Alta subzone, mainly from Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba. The remaining grapes originate from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno, supplemented by traditional local growers. All vines exceed 40 years of age.
Winemaking:
Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature (max 30°C). The wine spent six months in century-old oak vats for malolactic fermentation and clarification. Following a secondary selection, it was racked in June 1986 into 225-liter American oak barrels (20% new, 80% four-year-old average), handcrafted in the winery's cooperage. It underwent 96 months of aging with 15 manual rackings by candlelight in the iconic Vigier cellar. Bottled directly from the barrel, unfiltered, in July 1994. Minimum of 60 months of bottle aging before release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Garnet-ruby color with medium-low depth; clear, remarkably limpid, and sediment-free. Radiant and luminous with reddish and orange reflections. Broad coppery rim with minimal differentiation from the meniscus.
 
Nose: Immensely powerful and complex. It opens with a rustic, persistent nuance of old staves and rackings that, surprisingly, remains throughout the tasting. The rest is of extraordinary quality: animalistic notes, musk, and aged leather transition elegantly into macerated plums, dried apricots, Virginia tobacco, damp earth, ground pepper, and clove. A profound perfumed background of withered flowers, sun-dried tomato, and sloe in liqueur is subtly framed by balsamic hints of ivy and laurel.
 
Palate: Savory with a caressing texture, yet exhibiting significant concentration and energy. Vibrant bitters and a surging acidity provide the foundation for deeply spiced, overripe, and reduced fruit. More linear than broad, it remains remarkably fresh and still in transit. A monumental wine that has only begun to show full integration as it reaches its 30th year.
 
Commentary:
This 1985 vintage perfectly illustrates that no other Rioja red demands as much bottle age as the 890 from La Rioja Alta. Previous bottles appeared to be in a mid-maturation phase; this one suggests it could reach perfection with another 30 years of patience. A colossus of structural integrity and longevity.
 
Personal Score: 96
Tasting Group Average: 97

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