Imperial 1988 Gran Reserva

Wine: Imperial 1988 Gran Reserva
Winery: Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano, 10% Mazuelo
ABV: 13% vol.

Winemaking:
The wine remains in tanks until the completion of malolactic fermentation before being racked for wood aging. It matures for 36 months in semi-new 225-liter barrels (70% American oak and 30% French). Aged for a minimum of 36 months in the winery’s underground bottle racks before its release in the mid-1990s. Re-corked every 20 years.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Intense cherry color with medium-high depth; very clean, brilliant, and dark. Luminous with reddish and coppery reflections. Narrow, tile-colored rim, sharply defined against the meniscus.

 

Nose: An unusual Imperial—distinct and reliable. It presents as uninhibited and broad, packed with creamy and dairy notes, cocoa butter, roasted coffee, and toffee. Lacking restraint, it feels somewhat linear and lacks deeper complexity. Ripe red fruit is present but blurred by smoky spices and a liqueur-like background of sloe, maraschino cherries, and a sweet pastry note. It does not seem to develop further.

 

Palate: Much lighter than expected; lean, settled, and round, with an acidity that lifts the whole ensemble. Correct and pleasant, still marked by its aging but without sharp edges. Overall, it gives the impression of being less sparse than the 1990 vintage. It is currently at its peak for enjoyment, though it likely lacks significant future development potential. Spontaneous and playful, but lacking depth.

 

Commentary:
This vintage offers a glimpse of the stylistic direction this legendary brand would take in the following decade. While it lacks the profound structure of the greatest years, its balance and approachability make it a very pleasant drink right now.

 

Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 90