La Rioja Alta Cosecha 1904

Wine: La Rioja Alta Cosecha 1904
Winery: Sociedad de Cosecheros de Vino - La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: No precise data available (predominantly Tempranillo and Garnacha blend, with Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura).
ABV: 12% vol.
Winemaking:
While reliable records are scarce, the wine followed the traditional vinification system of the era: fermentation in the winery's original 18,000-liter wooden vats. In this case, the oak was relatively new as the wine dates from the winery's early years. It underwent a long stay in these vats (at least 12 months) before being transferred to used American oak barrels of various capacities. The aging lasted between 6 and 10 years, with periodic manual rackings. It was likely commercialized in the mid-1940s.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: The bottle—weighing heavily and of lower capacity than 75cl—remains in its original state without re-corking. Tile-colored ruby hue of low depth; clear and translucent. It presents a significant amount of sediment in uniform small flakes. The glass is completely sedimented and opaque, obscuring the interior. Low brilliance with brownish and amber reflections; no visible rim or meniscus, showing very little remaining coloring matter.
 
Nose: A "sleeper" that awakens with difficulty. It features an ultra-reductive framework where notes of husk, dried fruits, and incense mingle, followed by a very soft toasted background. Extremely settled and docile, it unfolds with nuances of antique shops, varnishes, and attic air. Over time, a dominant register of old wood, withered elements, leaf litter, and damp earth takes center stage.
 
Palate: The palate does not disappoint. It is gentle, smooth, clear, and clean; slightly lacking in vigor but still remarkably alive. It long ago surpassed a merely "polished" state to enter a different dimension of aging. Tannins have vanished, melted into a vanillic background filled with earthy tones. It is fleeting, light, and approachable, though not highly concentrated.
 
Commentary:
The mythical 1904 vintage is a proverbial wine for La Rioja Alta S.A., the very one that inspired the naming of the current 904 Gran Reserva. At 110 years old, it is difficult to evaluate this 20th-century survivor. For once, we shall avoid saying "it will outlive us all"—this rogue has already buried its entire generation and now looks back at us with a quiet, haunting grin. A truly unsettling and unique experience.
 
Personal Score: Not rated
Tasting Group Average: Not rated

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

proverbiales, por deu