Monte Real 1981 Gran Reserva

Wine: Monte Real 1981 Gran Reserva
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Graciano, 3% others (Viura, Malvasía Riojana)
ABV: 12% vol.

Winemaking:
Initial fermentation and aging for 12 months in old 20,000-liter wooden vats for malolactic fermentation and stabilization. Subsequently, the wine rested for 36 to 48 months in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels, subjected to 2-3 manual rackings per year. Blending took place in tanks followed by 6 to 12 months of stabilization before bottling. Minimum of 36 months of bottle aging in the winery’s underground cellars before commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Reddish-ruby color with medium-high depth; dark and opaque. Slightly grainy with a small amount of sediment at the base. Reddish and amber reflections, lacking brilliance. Intense sense of viscosity. Broad orange rim.

 

Nose: Sharing a strong lineage with the 1978 vintage, it stands out for its high initial intensity and a marked animalistic character: stable, musk, horsehair, and damp earth, alongside vegetable fibers (wicker), old harnesses, and leather. Powerful yet austere. It combines olfactory potency with a reticent nature, avoiding flamboyance in favor of the authentic "Cenicero" terroir that Riojanas traditionally imprinted on its wines. A textbook Monte Real, recognizable in every exaggerated detail; sparse in elegance but pure in its essence. With aeration, it reveals notes of orange peel, overripe reduced fruit, and a toasted, slightly wine-soaked background with an enduring leather presence and a finish of laurel and dried grape stalks.

 

Palate: It overflows with vigor; solid and firm, benefiting from an impetuous entry that transforms into brilliance. Broad, vibrant, and remarkably alive, it is driven by an outrageous acidity and a fantastic amount of candied fruit, enveloped by aged wood and an imperceptible trace of vanilla in the background. Sapid and generous, it features fine bitters and a prolonged finish. Tremendous!

 

Commentary:
This 1981 is a masterclass in the Cenicero style—a wine that prioritizes structural integrity and varietal purity over easy charm. Its energy and acidity suggest a magnificent future ahead for those who appreciate the more rugged, earthy side of classic Rioja.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 92