Viña Arana 1978 Reserva

Wine: Viña Arana 1978 Reserva
Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 70% Tempranillo, 30% Garnacha, Mazuelo, Graciano, and Viura
ABV: 11.5% vol.
Viticulture:
The Tempranillo is partially sourced from the winery's oldest estate vineyards in the Rioja Alta subzone, specifically from Ollauri, Rodezno, and Cenicero. Mazuelo and Graciano originate from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno. A small portion of the blend was purchased from local growers, provided the grapes met the sugar levels required to reach 12% potential alcohol.
Winemaking:
Initial selection upon arrival at the winery. The wine spent between 8 and 10 months in the iconic "grey wood" century-old oak vats to complete malolactic fermentation and natural stabilization. It matured for 36 months in seasoned 225-liter American oak barrels, subjected to a total of six manual rackings to remove sediment and ensure light oxygenation. Aged for a minimum of 24 months in the bottle within the winery's cellars before its commercial release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Brownish-ruby color with medium-low depth; clear, with a significant amount of sediment at the base, yet maintaining notable limpidity. Amber reflections with moderate brilliance. Broad, tile-colored rim, well-defined against the meniscus.
 
Nose: Medium intensity, initially showing signs of fatigue. It awakens with aeration, revealing classic Riojan aging notes—old leather, wine-soaked staves, and orange compote—over a reductive background of wet fur and stable. Traditional in style and quintessentially La Rioja Alta. After an hour, it acquires a soft smoky nuance and hints of scrubland (monte bajo) that enhance the ensemble. Straightforward but well-executed, gaining in expression and intensity over time.
 
Palate: Light and fresh on the entry, featuring a settled sweetness over candied, reduced, and piquant red fruit, sustained by ample acidity. Fully integrated and mature, it is filled with spices and high-quality bitters reminiscent of cocoa powder. The tannins are "plush" (mullidos), and the wine is currently at an optimal window for enjoyment. It leaves a lingering memory of oak on the finish.
 
Commentary:
An approachable and honest Reserva that captures the traditional spirit of the house. While not as complex as the winery's Gran Reservas from the same era, its balance and elegance make it a thoroughly enjoyable survivor. A wine meant for uncomplicated pleasure.
 
Personal Score: 90
Tasting Group Average: 88

No comments: