Viña Tondonia 1980 Gran Reserva

Wine: Viña Tondonia 1980 Gran Reserva
Winery: R. López de Heredia - Viña Tondonia (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 80% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacho, 5% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo
ABV: 12% vol.

Winemaking:
The wine rests for six months in large wooden vats to complete malolactic fermentation and natural stabilization before racking. It undergoes a meticulous aging process of eight years in seasoned American oak barrels (225L), handcrafted by the winery’s own coopers. Subjected to two manual rackings per year and fined with fresh egg whites, it was bottled directly from the cask without filtration. Each bottle was initially sealed with a lacquer capsule, later replaced by lead for labeling, and finished with a special wax seal to ensure optimal evolution. It rested in the winery's underground cellars for a minimum of 44 months before its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes

 

Appearance: Brownish-ruby color of medium depth; clear, open, and with sparse coloring matter yet remarkably luminous. Vivid orange reflections. Broad, coppery rim that almost merges with the meniscus.

 

Nose: A delicate aromatic profile that evolves significantly with aeration. It opens with a misty reductive note of old leather, black pepper, and esparto grass, which gradually dissipates to reveal an evocative damp landscape of shaded forest and walnut bark. A Tondonia of quintessential classicism, it unfolds with layers of dried fruit (plums, figs) alongside mellow hints of molasses, tobacco, orange zest, coffee beans, and creamy toast.

 

Palate: Although it may initially seem lean, it gains impressive poise on the palate. It is dry, concentrated, and driven by a robust acidity. The toasted nuances remain present, supported by subtle vanillic peaks. What follows is an ensemble of profound equilibrium—broad, vibrant, and surging with energy.

 

Commentary:
Despite being a vintage scarcely marketed in Spain, this 1980 is by no means a minor wine. Tasted alongside a monumental Imperial Gran Reserva of the same year, it held its own with distinct poise. It is a testament to the house style: a marriage of ethereal lightness and enduring structural integrity.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Average: 93