Monte Real 1983

Wine: Monte Real 1983
Winery: Bodegas Riojanas (Cenicero, La Rioja)
Appellation / Zone: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Garnacha, 2% Graciano, 3% others (Viura, Malvasía Riojana)
ABV: 12.5% vol.
Winemaking:
Initial fermentation and 12 months of aging in old 20,000-liter wooden vats for malolactic fermentation and stabilization. Subsequently, it rested for 12 to 18 months in used 225-liter American oak barrels, subjected to 2-3 rackings. The wines were blended in tanks and stabilized for 6 months before bottling. Aged for a minimum of 12 months in the winery’s bottle racks before release.
 
Tasting Notes
 
Appearance: Very clear brownish-ruby color, evolved, with medium-low depth. Orange reflections, matte, lacking brilliance. Broad rim, almost blending into the meniscus.
 
Nose: Medium intensity, finely toasted and reductive. Notes of old furniture, antique shop, varnishes, and tung oil appear alongside a background of Coptic incense and sacristy. It struggles to evolve in the glass and shows clear signs of fatigue. Hints of dried fruit (figs, prunes, carob) are supported by cured leather and Christmas spices (ginger, juniper). Plenty of information but lacking unity and focus.
 
Palate: Generous, greasy, and mature, offering a slightly liqueur-like, warm, and off-dry (abocada) sensation, suggesting a higher Garnacha content than declared. Polite and easy-going, creamy, with tannins extinguished by the years and a saving grace of residual acidity. It lacks the brand's well-known "punch."
 
Commentary:
While the Monte Real Crianza has always sat behind the Reserva, its evolution over the last year is becoming concerning. Not long ago, it was a solid wine—among the best of '83—but it now seems to be fading. Nevertheless, it has held up like a titan for 30 years and deserves respect. If only modern medium-aged wines were crafted like this.
 
Personal Score: 86
Tasting Group Average: 87

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