Capricho de Goya Moscatel 1996

Wine: Capricho de Goya Moscatel 1996

Winery: Bodegas Camilo Castilla (Corella, Navarra)
Appellation / Region: D.O. Navarra
Varietals: 100% Moscatel de Grano Menudo.
ABV: 15%

Winemaking
Grapes sourced from vines with an average age of 100 years. The production process spans 7 years, beginning with a 3-year oxidative aging period in glass carboys (damajuanas) placed outdoors, exposed to direct sunlight and thermal fluctuations. The wine is then racked into oak vats, where it matures for an additional 3 to 4 years before bottling. Presented in a 37.5 cl format.

 

Tasting Notes (03/07/2013)

 

Appearance: After 10 years of bottle age, the color has evolved into a dark mahogany with brownish glints and a copper, almost iodized rim. It displays a high viscosity with fine, permanent legs reminiscent of a Pedro Ximénez.

 

Nose: Enveloping and open, showing a quintessential aged Moscatel profile. It reveals raisins, pastry cream, and nuances of "sunned" wine and old solera. The bouquet is rich in elegant "rancio" notes (nuts, shells, walnut, varnish) alongside cola candy, punch, and toasted egg yolk. It strikes a balance between subtlety and power, requiring extended aeration to fully unfurl. A wine perfectly suited for long-term cellaring to further develop its reductive character.

 

Palate: Creamy and luscious on the palate, driven by an excellent acidity and a spirited nature. It is packed with sweet nuances, toasted accents, and spices, showing an intensity that rivals an Andalusian PX. It demands to be sipped slowly; the finish is titanic, with persistent notes of dried figs, carob and seasoned wood that linger indefinitely. A wine of great gastronomic potential that remains in peak condition.

 

Personal Score: 92
Tasting Group Score: [Not specified]

Tasting Notes (13/05/2013)

 

Appearance: Dark mahogany, stable and dense; showing no signs of fatigue after nearly a decade in the bottle since its purchase in 2004.

 

Nose: A true wonder of complexity. It presents an extreme oxidative style that remains "raw" and "rocky," appearing somewhat closed initially. It is a wine that demands patience, often requiring weeks of aeration after opening to truly unfurl. It reveals a unique expression of aged Moscatel, far removed from any conventional sweet wine, layered with high-quality creamy nuances and deep reductive notes. Majestic and profoundly elegant.

 

Palate: Imposing and structural. It displays such intensity and concentration that it feels as though it has yet to reach its evolutionary peak. The balance between its unctuous texture and the inherent acidity of the Grano Menudo varietal provides a verticality that suggests a lifespan of many decades. It is a "titanic" sweet wine with enough longevity "to outlive us all."

 

Personal Score: 93
Tasting Group Score: 92

Tasting Notes (19/11/2006)

 

Appearance: Mahogany hue with orange glints and a distinct iodized rim.

 

Nose: Immensely complex and powerful. It flows with a torrent of elegant smoky notes and toffee, over a vast array of confectionery details: cherries, raw cocoa, chocolate bonbons (both dark and white), burnt sugar, vanilla bean, and pumkin jam. Subtle hints of licorice and a faint, fleeting reductive note of solvent  are underpinned by seasoned wood.

 

Palate: Fleshy and surprisingly fruit-forward on the entry (stone fruit, plums, fresh dates). It is savory and highly concentrated, driven by a vivid, brilliant acidity that feels remarkably youthful. It offers an abundance of fresh macerated dried fruits (raisins, almonds, hazelnuts) with an enormous, broad finish. The aftertaste is complex, evoking café au lait, dulce de leche, and cherry pits. After two weeks of aeration, the wine continued to improve, showing a structural integrity that promises decades of life.

 

Personal Score: 93
Tasting Group Score: [Not specified]

Winery Facts: In 1987, the Camilo Castilla winery was acquired by the A&B Group, with a young Ana Beltrán at the helm. Taking over the company's management, she updated the wine portfolio while simultaneously reviving the production of historical, long-lost wines under the Goya brand. It wasn't until 1996—as a tribute to the 250th anniversary of the birth of the Aragonese painter Francisco José de Goya—that the winery released a super-oxidative sweet Gran Reserva named 'Capricho de Goya,' establishing it as the house's flagship wine. This move highlighted the winery's greatest asset: its tradition and expertise in crafting sweet wines.

A visit to the historic Camilo Castilla winery in the riverside town of Corella, midway between Pamplona, Logroño, Soria, and Zaragoza—is highly recommended. Here, the 'damajuanas' (demijohns) rest for years on outdoor terraces, exposed to snow, rain, and the merciless summer sun. Old oak barrels then age and refine this sweet wine to achieve greater complexity. As a side note, it’s worth mentioning that 10% of the base wine comes from overripe Garnacha Tinta added to the Moscatel—a detail no longer mentioned on the label or in the winery's advertising.

 

The wine in this post is a staggering sweet wine, on par with any of the world’s greatest vintages. Its complexity is stunning, and its quality-to-price ratio is out of this world. Furthermore, it is sold in 375ml bottles at exactly half the price of the 750ml version (a practice other national producers should really take note of). After opening several bottles, I must advise uncorking it and letting it breathe for at least two weeks before serving, allowing it to wake up from its long slumber in the bottle. Otherwise, it remains 'tighter than a drum' and cannot be truly enjoyed. I can only recommend it and thank the people at Bodegas Camilo Castilla for this liquid masterpiece.