La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1970

Wine: La Rioja Alta 890 Gran Reserva 1970

Winery: La Rioja Alta S.A. (Haro, La Rioja)
Appellation / Region: D.O.Ca. Rioja
Varietals: 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and Mazuelo
ABV: 13.5%
Viticulture: The Tempranillo is sourced from the estate's oldest vineyards in the Rioja Alta sub-zone, primarily from the municipalities of Briñas, Labastida, and Villalba. The remaining grapes originate from the Melchorón I and II estates in Briones and Rodezno.
 

Winemaking: Meticulous grape selection upon arrival. The wine spent between 12 and 18 months in the winery’s foundational centennial oak vats (grey wood) to complete malolactic fermentation and stabilization. It was then transferred to 225-liter American oak barrels, handcrafted in the winery’s own cooperage. The wine underwent an extensive aging period of 96 months with a total of 14 manual rackings (trasiegas) in the emblematic Vigier cellar. Bottled directly from the barrel without filtration. Limited production of 25,000 bottles (75 cl). Aged in the bottle for a minimum of 72 months prior to its commercial release.

 

Tasting Notes:
 

Appearance: The color alone is promising—highly unusual for a wine surpassing 40 years of age. It appears to be in its full youth. Bright, pristine reddish-ruby with a medium-high depth (capa) and no trace of sediment. It displays reddish and pomegranate highlights with a copper rim that remains relatively narrow against the meniscus.

 

Nose: Purity and depth. This wine possesses every hallmark of the greatest La Rioja Alta vintages, delivered in extraordinary concentration. Undeniably an "890" that sits among the legendary wines of Rioja. It opens with explosive power—a "cannon shot" of balsamic notes. Wild and layered with floral aromas of withered petals and Spanish broom, supported by a Mediterranean scrubland backdrop (rosemary, sage, oregano, mountain tea). Subtly, a soft, almost resinous hint of eucalyptus develops, bringing notes of leaf litter, walnut bark, truffle, and raw chestnut. Elegance personified. As it evolves, it offers very ripe red fruit, concentrated and sloe-like, with a refined toasted edge of freshly ground coffee, cocoa butter, fine hardwoods, cigar wrapper, and tobacco ash.

 

Palate: Pure roundness and balance. The mouthfeel is bright and fresh; while not overly heavy on the entry, it possesses an immense, lingering trajectory. It is remarkably complex and savory, filled with minute details and a candied finish. Spices emerge to coat spicy red fruit preserves. The tannins are pure silk, while the acidity envelops the palate like a velvet glove. It bears the indelible mark of the 1970 vintage. That an era so challenging for Spain could produce a wine of such caliber is simply inexplicable.

 

Personal Score: 99
Tasting Group Score: 98